Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Alex Lowe, 1980
Page Views: 9,903 total · 55/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Jan 28, 2009
Admins: Morgan Patterson, RJ B

You & This Route


67 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do ·

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing Details

Description

The Gunks are not known for steep cracks, but there are some...

Start in the chimney of White Pillar and move out to the obvious crack when you can. If you stem high enough you can start with hand jams; if you move out low, it's fingers. Or you can avoid the chimney altogether for harder variations.

Location

Just follow the base of the cliff till you see it. It's the crack on the left wall of a giant right facing corner. The chimney is White Pillar, and on the main face, to the right, is Honky Tonk Woman (recognized by a bolt).

Protection

Well protected with a standard rack. Medium cams and nuts.

As of 2017, please thank the fixed-anchor committee for the bolted anchor. Be very glad not to be using the old rotten stump.

Photos