Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: Alex Lowe, 1980
Page Views: 7,237 total · 60/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Jan 28, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Access Issue: A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing Details

Description

The Gunks are not known for steep cracks, but there are some...

Start in the chimney of White Pillar and move out to the obvious crack when you can. If you stem high enough you can start with hand jams; if you move out low, it's fingers. Or you can avoid the chimney altogether for harder variations.

Location

Just follow the base of the cliff till you see it. It's the crack on the left wall of a giant right facing corner. The chimney is White Pillar, and on the main face, to the right, is Honky Tonk Woman (recognized by a bolt).

Protection

Well protected with a standard rack. Medium cams and nuts.

As of 2017, please thank the fixed-anchor committee for the bolted anchor. Be very glad not to be using the old rotten stump.

Photos

It is a great climb like Jtree's Left Ski track. Pretty pumpy but there are tons of good feet. Jamming is good but not easy. They are all there. Aug 5, 2012
Ryan Chelstowski
Colorado Springs, CO
Ryan Chelstowski   Colorado Springs, CO
Fun Climb. Good climb to do in hot weather, mostly hit by shade Nov 24, 2012
R. Ruef
5.11a PG13
R. Ruef  
5.11a PG13
Excellent route. Protection before and while accessing the crack can be a little tricky. I found doubles, with a #4 low, and the bolt on the adjacent route to be helpful. The chimney is pretty reasonable, though. May 6, 2013
Yotsuba
 
Yotsuba  
 
Going in from the bottom is pretty rad and bumps it up a couple letter grades if you want additional pump - feels a little more direct too. Apr 17, 2017
This summer, 2017,a new bolted rap anchor was installed at the top of Harvest Moon by the Gunks Climbers' Coalition. Sep 25, 2017