Avg: 1 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 50 ft|
|FA:||Dave Saball and Todd Swain, 1985|
|Page Views:||389 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Simon Thompson on Apr 11, 2016|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
For more information please view mohonkpreserve.org/index.ph…
The original line went up just left of Eowyn at a little flake and goes at mid 5.10. Further to the left, the roof can be climbed at its very widest point, which goes at about 5.11b. Another variation climbs the far left side of the roof at a short R-facing corner (5.10c/d). All variations eventually merge to the tree belay on the ledge above. There is a 2nd pitch but I haven't done it and from the information available it doesn't appear very enticing.
All of these make great TR climbs after leading something near-by.