Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Williams, Dave Craft, Claude Suhl, 1965
Page Views: 5,440 total · 35/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


59 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing Details

Description

A fun and varied route on the far left end of the Nears; well worth the walk.

P1: Climb up to the left-facing corner, and eventually make your way around the arete to your right. Make face moves up the line of least resistance to a stance below the roofs. From here, figure your way up and left (or perhaps down, up, left and left) to the horizontals above. Place some pro to protect the second through the crux moves, then walk 15' right to a 2-bolt rap anchor. 90'

P2: Move right from the belay, and climb straight up past a notch in an overhang (crux, hard-to-place pro). Angle up right through steep rock to the top. 5.8, 60'.

Descent: Rap 40' from slings on a tree back to the bolt-and-chain anchor atop the first pitch. From here, rap 90' to the ground.

Protection

Standard Rack. The crux notch on the second pitch can be hard to protect well.

Location

Main Line is almost at the furthest extent of the Nears. Look for a big pillar, the Void block, leaning against the cliff. Void Where Inhibited climbs over the low roof that runs across the front of the block, and a crack splits up its right-facing aspect; this is the route Outsiders. Main Line starts about 50' right of this pillar, below a large, left-facing corner, and about 25' right of Mac-Reppy - the fixed sling at the roof of MacReppy should also be obvious.

Photos

I've never had much problem with the pro on the 2nd pitch myself - the gear is all there if you can reach it and hang to put it in. A couple of small stoppers works fine for me. And you have good cams down at your feet so it's not too bad.

A great route. Feb 23, 2006
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
 
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
 
This is a SCWEETT route. I found the pro numerous and straight forward on the second pitch. The first pitch crux was on thin pro. Jun 20, 2006
Spiro Spiro
  5.7+ PG13
Spiro Spiro  
  5.7+ PG13
love the route, felt the first pitch was harder then the second. worth the walk. Oct 10, 2008
John Ely
DC
 
John Ely   DC
 
On the second pitch, it is possible to stick a 3 camalot or similar in the notch of the roof; it sets strangely but I think it would hold. If one does the first pitch crux by traversing left, be careful of the finger flake hold. It seems loose if you torque out on it. Great Climb! Jul 16, 2009
JSH

JSH    
The first pitch can be a bit heady; it's definitely PG, though I don't know that I would go so far as to call it PG-13, with a good number of moves well beyond pro that is sometimes strenuous to place, and is often out of sight of the belayer. It's also quite easy to add some serious rope drag! May 3, 2010
doligo
  5.8 PG13
doligo  
  5.8 PG13
Heady is the right word for P1, I would have been happier with a set of smaller stoppers or even micros. May 24, 2010
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
On the first pitch I wasted a bunch of time trying to place RP's, only to kick them out when I climbed passed. Aug 22, 2010
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
  5.8
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
  5.8
Such a classic! The crux of the first pitch was a bit wet but manageable.
I'd say the second pitch protection is PG, but placing pro for the crux of the second pitch can be a bit strenuous. If you head there (via Bayards trail), this end of the cliff stays pretty empty these days thanks to the closure to the right. Oct 24, 2011