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Routes in d. Harvest Moon to the End

Across From the Fruitstand T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Akidlleativytoowouldn'tyou T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
D.S.B T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Eowyn T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Far from the Madding Crowd T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Flabby T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fossil Fools T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hang Ten T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harvest Moon T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hold the Mayo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
I'm OK, You're OK T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interlewd (Lady and the Tramp) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keystone Kop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King of P T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
LP T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lean and Mean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Like a Box of Chocolates T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Live and Let Die T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mac-Reppy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Near Side of Far, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Outsiders T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Positively 4th Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Punch and Judy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
R2-OK? T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Roman's Climb Next to Keystone Kop T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scrambled Legs T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Seniors in Motion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow Nose, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shootin' the Curl T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short and Sassy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spinal Exam T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spinal Traction 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Strange Customs T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Swells Good T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up in Arms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Void Where Inhibited T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Void Where Prohibited T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Whatever T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Aid, 120 ft
FA: Ivan Rezucha, 1978
Page Views: 1,085 total, 10/month
Shared By: Drewsef on Feb 21, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing Details

Description

Spinal Traction is one of the last routes in the Nears, making it a sweet spot to hang around for an hour or two escaping the crowds, dogs and spray. Locate the crack in the roof and climb up to where it meets the back wall (5.6). Aid out the crack, looking for unique nut placements in the good rock and the occasional micro cam or cam hook. As you near the lip, traverse slightly right as the rock deteriorates slightly (but no worries) and then up the face 20 feet to the pines on occasionally funky placements.
I did this solo lots o' years ago and had a blast but coming around the lip was a little heady.
If you're soloing, you'll have to build your anchor somewhat lower than the start.

Location

At the end of the Nears. Find a great roof that is framed on the left by a right-facing corner - the roof is about 30 feet off the deck. Look for the thin crack that starts in the left rear of the roof and diagonals out and right (you'll be grinnin' when you see the line!).

Best to lead on one line and trail a second to rap with because the route turns the lip and would be bad form to lower with. Find the pines above and make the short rap from there (may or may not be slings here, be prepared to fix tat or say bye-bye to leavers if needed!).

Protection

Lots of medium nuts! Plenty of small and large as well, might throw in a few RP's. Tiny and small cams. Cam hooks are nice and a big hook for the face in case that's your flavor. If you're soloing you might want a range of cam sizes to build your anchor down low from the start...then again it could be a nest of small stuff too, depending on how spicy you like it.

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Will Stat
  5.6 C2+
Will Stat  
  5.6 C2+
Might be the biggest roof you'll ever aid Oct 21, 2012