Type: Trad
FA: Jim McCarthy and John Reppy, 1965
Page Views: 1,589 total · 13/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Mar 30, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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Access Issue: A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing Details


Locate the large Outsiders block that leans against the cliff and forms an obvious chimney. To the right of that is the left-facing corner system of Main Line. Between those two landmarks, you will see a short left-facing corner and a crack that leads up to a roof that is often adorned with a clump of slings. This is Mac-Reppy.

Climb the corner and crack, go over the roof into another left-facing corner, then belay or go through the roof and corner system immediately above to the top.




The Far End of the Nears.


Easier than 5.11c as in guidebook. For taller guys 5.10+. The upper portion 5.8 is incredible. Aug 6, 2009
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
This used to be 5.8 before a flake pulled off in the now-crux corner. It's 5.8 in blue Dick... I did it as an 8 and as an 11. It's well worth aiding the 11 crux and doing it as an 8 A0.

I remember the first time I did the upper part I did a full 360 degree turn around as I stemmed the upper corner. Aug 7, 2009
I can't imagine a less "committing" 5.11 climb. You can place great gear over the lip of the roof from a decent stance, then you can test various ways to attack the crux and keep returning to that stance, and then if you want you can downclimb a few moves and get a total rest before making your final assault. The move itself is hard or easy depending on the kind of climbing you're good at, and an argument can probably be made for any rating from 10a to 11a. Jun 12, 2010
I don't usually comment on routes, but I thought the other comments were a little sandbagged. I thought this climb was a one move gunks 5.11 and that the one move was really hard, like solid 5.11 hard and being tall doesn't help much. I am 6'1 and have climbed many 5.11's and 12's in the Gunks. Take that for whatever it's worth. Sep 4, 2012
The Gunks
chris_vultaggio   The Gunks
Agree with above - my 6'4" partner couldn't just stretch for the jug so definitely some moves between even for taller folks. Solid 5.11. Dec 17, 2012
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
This climb is worth doing (both pitches) even if you aid the crux. Very fun climbing on P2. Jul 25, 2013
Alex CV
Greater NYC area
Alex CV   Greater NYC area
Solid 11 in my book. The "one move" for me was as hard as many other routes in that letter range. Aug 3, 2013
5.10 guys???? Are we talking about the same route?
Gotta agree with akline - this thing is HARD.
The hand jam is great, the little left hand edge is ok, but that reach... Jun 7, 2015
Peter T
New Joisey
Peter T   New Joisey
This is a 5.8 with a single V3ish boulder problem move. Like others said being tall doesn't help. As of 5/26/18, the fixed rappel anchor consists of 3 rusted medium sized nuts backed up by a 2-inch tree with a rotted sling buried in dirt... Might still good for a bit but it wouldn't be a bad idea to bring a bail nut and some webbing up there next time. May 27, 2018
Dana Bartlett
Dana Bartlett   CO
In response to the last post: topping out and walking back is simple and shouldn't take more than five minutes. I did this in 1977 when it was a 5.8 and then again after the flake broke and the difficulty increased - I think it was a better route at 5.8. May 27, 2018