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Routes in Third Flatiron

1911 Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blazing Biners T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dog's Head Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
East Face (Standard) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Face Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Extra Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Falcon's Fracture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feathers and Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friday's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Funny Games T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Greenman's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Holier than Thou S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inner Sanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Northwest Passage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pentaprance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Ph.D. Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rite Of Spring T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Saturday's Folly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sayonara T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shoyu State S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
South Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Super Woo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Thin Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Third Kingdom/Papillion T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Third World Zone T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Waiting For Columbus T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winky Woo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Wrongs of Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: R. Rossiter, R. Wolf, 1988
Page Views: 220 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 7, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details

Description

A pretty good route if you climb it so as to avoid some lichen and loose rock, but not quite as direct that way.

P1 (5.9, PG-13, 150')
Climb up the initial left-facing corner to a lower angle section of rock and progress back into a right-facing open-book. Place some gear and work up and left out of the steep corner. Follow the corner directly (lichen and thin pro, 5.9+) or stay left out of the true corner on the face (big holds, thin pro, 5.8+). Go out around the corner and into a second, very short, right-facing corner. and onto a tiny ledge above it. Pull onto some good holds above (5.8+, PG-13) which are just left of a bulge and then move out and right on easier climbing (5.5, S) to the top. Belay from gear in horizontal cracks.
To retreat, we climbed down the South Chimney (5.5+), but it might be less enervating to climb up the slab of the main rock for 50 meters to the S.W. Chimney. And descend that route, or to finish on a slab route to the main summit and a standard descent.

Location

Arrive at the Upper South face of the 3rd Flatiron in the vicinity of the S.W. Chimney and S. Chimney. Just downhill from the SW chimney, perhaps 50 meters and just 15 meters right of the pocketed dihedral that is the start of the South Chimney, there is a shallow, blocky, left-facing dihedral starting at the ground and rising up over a lower angle section to a right-facing steep corner. This is the start of Inner Sanctum. Just right of this is the offset overhanging seam and flake start to "Thin Crack."

Protection

A standard light rack to 3"

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