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Routes in Third Flatiron

1911 Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blazing Biners T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dog's Head Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
East Face (Standard) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Face Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Extra Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Falcon's Fracture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feathers and Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friday's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Funny Games T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Greenman's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Holier than Thou S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inner Sanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Northwest Passage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pentaprance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Ph.D. Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rite Of Spring T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Saturday's Folly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sayonara T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shoyu State S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
South Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Super Woo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Thin Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Third Kingdom/Papillion T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Third World Zone T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Waiting For Columbus T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winky Woo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Wrongs of Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,587 total · 17/month
Shared By: Dan Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details

Description

From the East Bench climb up on easy rock (5.0) to the first belay at an obvious pine tree to the right of the central channel. Continue on up for a few more pitches, staying just right of the main channel in the face. Set up a belay under the "U" in "CU" and lead straight through the U ( runout). Finish the climb by asending the large crack system directly above the "U" and head for the summit or do another belay if required. DESCENT: There are three rappels from fixed eye-bolts. A single 50m rope is sufficient; on the last rappel, you may either use a double-rope for the 140ft. mostly free-rappel or traverse west on a ledge and rap 72ft. on a single rope to the West Bench.

Protection

Like most Flatiron faces, this route can be lead with only nuts, hexes, and slings.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
This is pretty dang runout as you split the uprights. Maybe 60-70 feet without pro. Mar 8, 2002
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
If you belay at the nice horn and crack we did, the runout through the U of the CU is closer to 80 ft. Stay well to the right towards the top, as the rock is better. I got into a crumbly spot that was not confidence inspiring, but was happy to see much nicer stone to my right. This is the line to pass large groups on the standard route. Sep 17, 2005
Luis Barandiaran
Longmont, CO
  5.6 R
Luis Barandiaran   Longmont, CO
  5.6 R
My brother and I climbed this route today. Staying on the left edge, pitches two and three were beautiful flake hauls up perfect stone. For the fourth pitch, the best place to set an anchor for the runout is on a small ledge 15 or 20 feet above the bigger ledge but still 20' feet from the "U". Danny was able to slot in a questionable nut some 8 feet above the anchor. Two little friction bulges over 40-50 feet of clean slab provided a good deal of spice, with the leader looking at a 80' tumble! Some thoughtful moves higher up after the nice crack system to join up with the standard route to finish provided great exposed, slab climbing to cap off another fantastic Flatirons outing. If you're comfortable with big 5.6 runout, this is one not to be missed! Aug 5, 2006
Dean Carpenter
Boulder, CO
  5.6 R
Dean Carpenter   Boulder, CO
  5.6 R
Not much pro but more fun than The Standard East Face route. Aug 21, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
I thought this was more engaging than College Drop Out. I was near the left up right, maybe there is an easier line up the center of the "U". Nov 21, 2011

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