Type: Trad, 8 pitches
FA: Floyd and Earl Millard, 1906
Page Views: 172,578 total · 652/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


1,022 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed February 1 to Aug. 12, 2021: Details

Description

To quote Rossiter, "This is probably the best beginner climb in the solar system." This route is best led for the first time following another party unless you don't care about finding the fixed eye-bolts. Since nearly every stance is a rest, it's tough to discern the belays.

From the East Bench, move up and to the left across a channel to the first belay. Stay on this side of the channel for the next 5-6 pitches with easy 5.0-5.2 climbing. Pitch 5 will traverse the "C" of CU. After pitch 6/7, you must cross the channel at the notch near the top. The last, crux pitch (5.4) starts on the other side of the channel to the top. It's 6 rope-stretching pitches or 8 as described with a 50m rope.

DESCENT: there are three rappels from fixed eye-bolts. A single 50m rope is sufficient; on the last rappel, you may either use a double-rope for the 140 feet mostly free-rappel or traverse right on a ledge and rap 72 feet on a single rope to the West Bench.

Per Samir Abdosh: after the final rap, hike *north* up the base instead of down. There is a trail that is MUCH easier to descend through than going south. If you go south, you'll have a very unpleasant experience bushwhacking and downclimbing very slippery stone. You'll also have to rappel again as there is an offset cliff between the Flatiron and the southside canyon.

Protection

Can be led with only hexes and nuts. Large eye bolts at the belays.

Photos