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Routes in Third Flatiron

1911 Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blazing Biners T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dog's Head Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
East Face (Standard) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Face Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Extra Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Falcon's Fracture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feathers and Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friday's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Funny Games T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Greenman's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Holier than Thou S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inner Sanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Northwest Passage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pentaprance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Ph.D. Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rite Of Spring T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Saturday's Folly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sayonara T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shoyu State S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
South Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Super Woo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Thin Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Third Kingdom/Papillion T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Third World Zone T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Waiting For Columbus T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winky Woo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Wrongs of Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, TR, 130 ft
FA: George Bracksieck & Teri Ebel
Page Views: 1,101 total · 8/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details

Description

This is a fun, little pitch that caught the eye of a pair of dufi who thought that A Very Ament's Slab might be climbable without crampons in December after a snow storm. It turns out, we were just following in the footsteps of a pair of better climbers. This lies on the huecoed south face of the lower cliff seen on p. 200 below route 21 along Approach III in the Flatirons guidebook by R. Rossiter. There’s probably plenty of room for FAs on this cliff band for average blokes or lasses.

It may have been climbed previously...it was. However, no mention of this exists in the Flatirons guidebook or this database...until now.

Stop reading if you don't like beta. Start up an obvious line of little resistance up slightly-overhanging, jugs, huecos, and a tufa of sorts. You can use an orange & yellow Alien before you commit. Then a #3 Camalot fits decently in a hueco for the committing overhang. After 15 feet (the best part), it eases to less than vertical. You can fit a #3.5 Camalot in a hueco above the overhang. Move left to a slot for a #0.75 Camalot. From here, you basically go up easy, neat huecos all the way to the slab edge top of the lower cliff band. You can move left to a natural thread. 130’.

To descend, move left then downclimb a couple overlaps to a rappel tree with 2 slings & a fat mallon ring. The rappel tree is visible in the photo on p. 196 Flatirons guidebook by R. Rossiter. Rappel 80’ to the ground over 2 overhangs. Alternatively, you could go to the top of the gully which puts you near the base of Saturday’s Folly, me thinks.

Location

On the south side of the Third Flatiron, along the Approach III, this ascends an obvious, short overhang to a very huecoed face. This may climb what is called the Outer Wedge in Rossiter's guidebook.

Protection

Rack a couple medium wires, #9 & 11 hexes, yellow Alien to #3.5 Camalot.

Photos

Hey Leo -- I saw this route's photo in the slide show recently. So today I hiked up there to make sure it is the same route I climbed in the early '90s, with Teri Ebel. It is. Until Steve Levin was putting his Eldo guidebook together, a few years ago, I had never communicated my climbing experiences to any route-establishment authority. Mountain Project makes doing so easy. Dec 14, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.9
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.9
Cool, George. What'd'ya name it? Dec 16, 2012
I didn't name it. And who knows if it was climbed before we did. Your name is fine. Dec 17, 2012

More About Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child)

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