Type: Trad, TR
FA: Matt Samet, Josh Deuto, August, 2001
Page Views: 1,516 total · 7/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Aug 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details

Description

This route is in the gully leading up to the Ghetto on the back (west) side of the 3rd Flatiron as you approach from the Royal Arch Trail. It is on the un-named spire just up the gully from W.C. Fields Pinnacle and about 120 feet south of and below the scramble up into the Ghetto.

An existing route, Holier Than Thou (11b) climbs the right side of the west overhang via 5 bolts, and a pin to double bolt anchors. Funny Games is just left and can be easily toproped off the double bolts at the top of the spire.

Start off the platform, place a #1 Camalot in the rotten break and move up and right into holes (5.10s). Cruise up bomber huecos past a #3 Camalot to a ledge with an old 1/4 bolt on the left (ignore this bolt). Move right and clip the pin on Holier Than Thou, preferably backing it up. Move back left into the center of the bulge and fire past sidepulls and huecos to the small black streak at the top of the wall (12+ with decent whipper potential onto small gear).

Protection

Bring Camalots #1 and #3, as well as a good assortment of small TCUs and small-middling wires to back up the pin at the crux.

Photos

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