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Routes in Third Flatiron

1911 Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blazing Biners T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dog's Head Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
East Face (Standard) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Face Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Extra Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Falcon's Fracture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feathers and Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friday's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Funny Games T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Greenman's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Holier than Thou S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inner Sanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Northwest Passage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pentaprance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Ph.D. Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rite Of Spring T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Saturday's Folly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sayonara T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shoyu State S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
South Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Super Woo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Thin Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Third Kingdom/Papillion T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Third World Zone T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Waiting For Columbus T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winky Woo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Wrongs of Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: R. Briggs, J. Bragg 1973
Page Views: 1,823 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 2, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

To approach this climb, ascend as necessary to the West Face (backside) of the Third Flatiron. The route starts on the north side, below an obvious, wide crack, ascending up to and through said wide crack (one 5.9 move near a #3.5 or #4 Camalot), then up and right under a roof with scant protection (5.9) which ends in a big move to a hidden side-pull.

The crux comes some 100' off of the deck. Place a a few poor stoppers at the lip of a small roof, then pull up into the dihedral above on juggy holds to place a good 0.5" or 0.75" cam. The crux is pulling over the lip and into the left-leaning, finger crack. A second cam (0.75-1") can be placed mid crux if desired. Make a nice technical move to establish yourself into good finger locks and complete the crack to a ledge of sorts. make way to the South (right) and belay off of a drilled pin and a slung boulder/horn.

Finish on one of several rounout, but easy finishes on the right, possibly Friday's Folly Direct.

Protection

A standard rack one set of stoppers, small tricams and one set of cams to a #4 camalot. Include a good number of 2' slings, as the route and protection wander.

Protection at the crux is solid .5"-1" cams, but there is some rising traverse leading to this point which is 5.8 or 5.9 and runout.

The belay is a cord around a big boulder and an old pin to the side (so-so) to put the belay point above you, a pink tricam or #8-9 stopper can be placed in some so-so rock. It is your call.
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Does anyone, other than Tony, do this route? I've now done it 3 times, leading it twice (once very badly) and now following it (scary on the traverse). I think it's really cool. Like an easier version of the West Overhang on the Maiden. Good 8 and 9 climbing leads up to the roof. The traverse right is exciting, but not death. You have to work a bit at the roof to get gear, but there's a no hands ledge to rest on. There's a trick move that makes the crux overhang pretty easy, maybe 10a. Maybe easier! Hard to say. But I'm only going to downrate it a bit, since the first time I did it it sure felt like 10c. Oct 26, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
From the post:"Protection at the crux is solid .5"-1" cams, but there is some rising traverse leading to this point which is 5.8 or 5.9 and runout. "

From Ivan's Comment:"I disagree with the S rating. ..." - (snip - you can read above)

Ivan, you made it a point to disagree with the S rating, and you state that the crux was well protected. But do you disagree that the rising traverse was not well protected? I'm trying to understand your point of view. Mine was that if you refuse to put distance between your placements that you can not lead this route. There are places, intrinsic to this climb, that will not be well protected in my opinion. I think that there is 'S'evere fall potential.

Do we really disagree or are you saying that if it's not 'S' at the crux, that it's not 'S' at all? (In which case, Paris Girl is no longer S). Jan 15, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
This is an exciting and fun climb. I led this clean yesterday 10/26/02 after hanging on the ceiling a couple of times last week. The ceiling was much easier than last week using a trick move discovered by my partner Luke. I'd say it was hard 5.9. Last week it was definitely hard 5.10 and left the backs of my fingertips shredded due to sliding down the parallel crack.

I disagree with the S rating. There is a very good small horizontal cam (green Alien) as you start the hard moves which last only about 8 feet. There are good feet under the bulge and an undercling which makes the moves pretty reasonable, if you are tall enough to use them. There is a good cam and brass nut immediately after the hard moves to protect the leader and the second. Be careful these don't lift up as you do the roof. There is a good wire above the first tier of the roof. The wires on the underside of the roof are pretty bad. You have to climb up on buckets to get the wire with your good gear about 10 feet to the left, but it's easy to reverse the moves. It may be possible to get a #4/purple Camalot in a rotten pocket under the roof (a #4 Friend was too small and the rock too rotten), but it's not worth it unless roofs really psyche you out. You may want two big cams at the wide crack start. I used a #3 Camalot and a #4 Friend. You second can leave them on the ledge at the start.

The belay is about 15 feet up and right from the crux. Lasso a tower with the rope. There is an ancient ring bolt you can use to keep the rope from riding up. You can also get cams on both sides of a loose block. Downclimb (on the lead) the south side (5.5?) to the Friday's Folly rappel.

My gear list: Several of the bigger brass nuts, #4, #7 DMM Wallnuts, double Aliens green, yellow, red, single cams about that to gold/#2 Camalot, 6+ long runners with biners, 7+ long draws. Oct 27, 2002