Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
|FA:||In Rossiter's book|
|Page Views:||4,443 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Klein on Sep 30, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
Updated details may be found here.
From the belay at the gap, place a #0 TCU, do a couple face moves and then step out into the void. The whole route can be aided clean (which is the way I did it) with a set of TCUs and cams. There are two fixed pins and a fixed nut with a huge wire on it, in the dihedral. Every placement is bomber.
A small smattering of bird crap will not bother you (if your aiding it) as you enjoy the incredible exposure on this climb. About 3/4 of the way through the dihedral a small crack leads out and onto the east face, where some runout 5.7 climbing takes you to the top (use slings, quickdraws if you want to eliminate drag).