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Third Kingdom/Papillion
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Third Flatiron
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1911 Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Blazing Biners T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dog's Head Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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East Face (Standard) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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East Face Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Exit Through The Gift Shop V0 4 |
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Extra Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Fail Safe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Falcon's Fracture T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Feathers and Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flailure (Is Not an Option) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Friday's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Funny Games T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Greenman's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
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Holier than Thou S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Inner Sanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Misled Youth T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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More Mellow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Negative Space (P1) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Northwest Passage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Panda Rigolo S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Panda Scat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pandammic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pentaprance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Ph.D. Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pile In the Sky S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rite Of Spring T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Saturday's Folly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sayonara T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shoyu State S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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South Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Super Woo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Thin Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Third Kingdom/Papillion T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Third World Zone T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Waiting For Columbus T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Winky Woo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Wrongs of Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | In Rossiter's book |
| Page Views: | 5,281 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Klein on Sep 30, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
Awesome route and wild exposure! This route takes the huge overhanging/slanting dihedral at the top of the 3rd's North Face. The best approach is by doing Northwest Passage. However, you can reach the big C-shaped gap at the start of the dihedral from College Dropout or another close by East Face route.
From the belay at the gap, place a #0 TCU, do a couple face moves and then step out into the void. The whole route can be aided clean (which is the way I did it) with a set of TCUs and cams. There are two fixed pins and a fixed nut with a huge wire on it, in the dihedral. Every placement is bomber.
A small smattering of bird crap will not bother you (if your aiding it) as you enjoy the incredible exposure on this climb. About 3/4 of the way through the dihedral a small crack leads out and onto the east face, where some runout 5.7 climbing takes you to the top (use slings, quickdraws if you want to eliminate drag).
From the belay at the gap, place a #0 TCU, do a couple face moves and then step out into the void. The whole route can be aided clean (which is the way I did it) with a set of TCUs and cams. There are two fixed pins and a fixed nut with a huge wire on it, in the dihedral. Every placement is bomber.
A small smattering of bird crap will not bother you (if your aiding it) as you enjoy the incredible exposure on this climb. About 3/4 of the way through the dihedral a small crack leads out and onto the east face, where some runout 5.7 climbing takes you to the top (use slings, quickdraws if you want to eliminate drag).
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