Type: Trad
FA: In Rossiter's book
Page Views: 5,152 total · 19/month
Shared By: Andrew Klein on Sep 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Awesome route and wild exposure! This route takes the huge overhanging/slanting dihedral at the top of the 3rd's North Face. The best approach is by doing Northwest Passage. However, you can reach the big C-shaped gap at the start of the dihedral from College Dropout or another close by East Face route.

From the belay at the gap, place a #0 TCU, do a couple face moves and then step out into the void. The whole route can be aided clean (which is the way I did it) with a set of TCUs and cams. There are two fixed pins and a fixed nut with a huge wire on it, in the dihedral. Every placement is bomber.

A small smattering of bird crap will not bother you (if your aiding it) as you enjoy the incredible exposure on this climb. About 3/4 of the way through the dihedral a small crack leads out and onto the east face, where some runout 5.7 climbing takes you to the top (use slings, quickdraws if you want to eliminate drag).

Protection Suggest change

A set of TCUs and a few cams (0.5 to 2).