Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,108 total · 15/month
Shared By: George Bell on Aug 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is an alternate final pitch for the Standard East Face route. The normal finish has a much more spectacular position, however.

The route begins right at the top of The Gash. If you are doing the Standard East Face Route, don't traverse north on Kiddy Car Ledge, but head west into the top of The Gash. Here a ramp heads up the south side of the summit, this is the route (calling it a crack is somewhat of a misnomer).

The ramp is about the same angle and difficulty as the main east face, but it feels more serious due to the "big air" dropoff immediately to the west (the same dropoff as the first rappel). The climb also seems easier the farther left (toward the dropoff) you go. There is some opportunity for protection, but not much. You won't fall on 5.3, but if you did you could go over the edge and end up dangling in space (or decking).

After 100', you will reach the rappel bolts for the normal rappel from the summit. Due to the diagonal nature and dropoff, a nasty fall could be experienced even by a follower, so not a good route for beginners.

Protection Suggest change

Light rack to 3"

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