Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,428 total · 11/month
Shared By: George Bell on Aug 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details

Description

This is an alternate final pitch for the Standard East Face route. The normal finish has a much more spectacular position, however.

The route begins right at the top of The Gash. If you are doing the Standard East Face Route, don't traverse north on Kiddy Car Ledge, but head west into the top of The Gash. Here a ramp heads up the south side of the summit, this is the route (calling it a crack is somewhat of a misnomer).

The ramp is about the same angle and difficulty as the main east face, but it feels more serious due to the "big air" dropoff immediately to the west (the same dropoff as the first rappel). The climb also seems easier the farther left (toward the dropoff) you go. There is some opportunity for protection, but not much. You won't fall on 5.3, but if you did you could go over the edge and end up dangling in space (or decking).

After 100', you will reach the rappel bolts for the normal rappel from the summit. Due to the diagonal nature and dropoff, a nasty fall could be experienced even by a follower, so not a good route for beginners.

Protection

Light rack to 3"

Photos

Danny Gilbert
Boulder, CO
 
Danny Gilbert   Boulder, CO
 
I think this makes for a great alternative downclimb to going back down the face you just came up. Aug 15, 2018