Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Rossiter?
Page Views: 3,475 total · 14/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Aug 7, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Shoyu State is a sustained face climb on the South side of the Third Flatiron. This route is really good.

To get there, hike up to start for the the East face routes on the Third Flatiron and solo or simulclimb a long rising traverse to the far South edge of the Flatiron. On our way we passed two of the massive eyebolts, but don't go too high, maybe only 50-100 feet or so above the East Bench. You should be able to located a bolted rap anchor with brand new chains hanging from it. Rap into the "1911 Gully" from here - a fern-filled, isolated area. We just made it down with a 70m rope, but a 60m would probably put you a ramp that could be easily down-climbed. Alternately, you could scramble down the East face about 100 feet further to some large horns with slings and rap from there (this is only a 75 foot rap or so).

Once at the bottom, flake your rope and scramble up the ramp to a bolt below the overhang. Clip this bolt and reach up to good holds and swing up and onto the main face. Climb steep crimps and slopers past seven more bolts and then run it out to the anchor on easy ground. The crux is a 15 foot stretch of climbing that begins at third bolt just right of some obvious pebbles/holds. There's another difficult move just past the last bolt.

Protection Suggest change

8 bolts to a fixed anchor.