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|Shared By:||George Bell on Nov 10, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
Updated details may be found here.
The bottom of this chimney is a steep right facing corner. Climb this corner, or climb another crack 20' right of this (easier), and then traverse back left above an overhang. Soon you will reach a nasty looking 12" slot. This turns out to be easy due to an abundance of face jugs and a nice ramp for the feet. When you get a chance, move left into the bottom of the upper chimney. The floor of this chimney is flat and there is a piton here for an anchor. This belay is only about 80' off the ground.
Continue up the chimney, which looks hard as it narrows to 7". A nice ramp appears for the feet, though, and you can sling a chockstone for the crux moves (getting above this 7" constriction). There is an old ring piton on the south wall at the crux, but it appeared so lousy I didn't even clip it. Head on up to a notch, then north out on the east face. Clip an old bolt, then wander up and right on the east face to a summit (the "Inner Wedge"). From the 80' belay in the chimney, this entire section can be done as one pitch with with a 60m rope (or you can go all the way from the ground to the notch, and split it up this way).
Just north, the next notch is the top of the SW Chimney. Downclimb or continue to the top via that route.