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Routes in Third Flatiron

1911 Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blazing Biners T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dog's Head Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
East Face (Standard) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Face Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Extra Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Falcon's Fracture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feathers and Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friday's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Funny Games T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Greenman's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Holier than Thou S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inner Sanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Northwest Passage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pentaprance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Ph.D. Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rite Of Spring T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Saturday's Folly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sayonara T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shoyu State S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
South Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Super Woo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Thin Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Third Kingdom/Papillion T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Third World Zone T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Waiting For Columbus T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winky Woo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Wrongs of Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,013 total · 10/month
Shared By: George Bell on Nov 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details

Description

This is a solid and interesting route. You can approach by coming up from the Royal Arch Trail (fastest), or down from the base of the standard raps (if climbing an east face route first). In the first case, the chimney is right after the "crux slab" on the approach gully that begins just west of the W.C. Fields Pinnacle. In the second case, this is the first significant chimney right (south of) the SW Chimney.

The bottom of this chimney is a steep right facing corner. Climb this corner, or climb another crack 20' right of this (easier), and then traverse back left above an overhang. Soon you will reach a nasty looking 12" slot. This turns out to be easy due to an abundance of face jugs and a nice ramp for the feet. When you get a chance, move left into the bottom of the upper chimney. The floor of this chimney is flat and there is a piton here for an anchor. This belay is only about 80' off the ground.

Continue up the chimney, which looks hard as it narrows to 7". A nice ramp appears for the feet, though, and you can sling a chockstone for the crux moves (getting above this 7" constriction). There is an old ring piton on the south wall at the crux, but it appeared so lousy I didn't even clip it. Head on up to a notch, then north out on the east face. Clip an old bolt, then wander up and right on the east face to a summit (the "Inner Wedge"). From the 80' belay in the chimney, this entire section can be done as one pitch with with a 60m rope (or you can go all the way from the ground to the notch, and split it up this way).

Just north, the next notch is the top of the SW Chimney. Downclimb or continue to the top via that route.

Protection

Standard rack to 3.5"

Photos

Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
  5.5
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
  5.5
I climbed the South Chimney on 8-23-05. It was very enjoyable and clean. Note: as the route name indicates this is a chimney route so its an entirely different sort of climbing than the 5.5 face climbs. In other words--be comfortable climbing chimneys and you'll do just fine. The climbing is very clean and it forms a perfect chimney. I don't particularly like chimneys and even I was getting the hang of it by the end of the climb.

P1. lie back and chimney up the dihedrial on the left. It looks tough but it goes much easier this way. Climb up to the large ledge with a pin. This is the best belay although its only 1/2 a rope length up. P2. Climb the clean chimney. There are lots of face holds by the constriction noted above to make it easier. Its difficult to protect the chimney (as usual).

From the top of the SW chimney, 2 60 m ropes will deposit you on the ground if you don't like downclimbing 5.4 unprotected. There is a large block/chockstone that makes a horn you can sling for the rappell. Aug 23, 2005

More About South Chimney

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