Type: Trad, 72 ft
FA: Gerry Roach & Stan Shepherd, 1958, FFA Pat Ament and Gordy R
Page Views: 3,985 total · 19/month
Shared By: George Bell on Aug 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details


This is an exciting route up the steep west prow of the Third Flatiron. It follows directly up the final rappel on the standard descent, so try to do it when nobody is coming down (mid-week early mornings?). It is also easily toproped from the rap anchor.

Approach by taking the 3rd Flatiron access trail, and continue past the East face between the 2nd and 3rd Flatirons until you reach the west face of the 3rd. Alternatively, climb the east face first and after rapping you will be right at the start.

The climb is a half pitch long. It is more difficult and not as well protected as Friday's Folly, and the rock is also a little worse.

Start where the rap ends (left of the Friday's Folly crack) and scramble up to a steep face with a hangarless bolt (plus two other chopped bolts). This bolt provides the only protection for the first difficult stemming move. Soon you reach better handholds and a thin crack, move on up past a large detached block below a roof with an obvious thin crack above it. This block appears to be quite solid (the best pro is right behind it).

There is a piton at the start of the thin crack that you can clip. Don't climb the thin crack (would be quite hard), but use face holds to move up and right. Then traverse back left on big holds below a roof to the top of the thin crack. Easier moves then lead straight up a V-Slot to the eye bolt rappel anchor.

This cruxes on this route are short, but involve balancy moves with small handholds.


Wires and small cams (to about 2.5").
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Matt, sorry for the confusion. The continuation you describe (more or less) is here listed under the route name "West Door" (the final pitch). Nov 4, 2001
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
There is a great variation of this route that you can do to spice it up and make it a bit harder. This should be the preferred finish for a solid 5.10 leader, if you ask me.

Follow Saturday's Folly past the face climbing just right of a thin seam- and get to the point where you would go left under an overhang to an easy corner.

DON'T GO LEFT. Set yourself up at the base of the bulging arete and pull diectly through the overhang, continuing up the arete until you reach the fixed belay station up 15 feet above. (eye bolts) This can be reasonably protected from below for the opening moves, just before the overhang (5.10c crux). After a few moves, the climbing lets up.

I called this "The Super Direct." No claims on the FA however. FA= ??? Aug 5, 2002
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
You CAN get pro for the first moves. You can get gear below the ledge you start from to keep you from falling all the way, a yellow Alien up and left (a bit shallow) and a pink tricam in a right facing flake just above (takes up a hand hold). These two pieces are not bomber but good enough considering you are toproped at that point. Oct 27, 2002
Jon Cheifitz
Superior, Co
Jon Cheifitz   Superior, Co
Does anyone know the name or rating of the thin crack? Does it have one? Jan 30, 2010
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
The face off the ground between the two Follies goes on TR at about 5.9 or maybe harder if you can't make some key reaches. The holds are surprisingly positive and mostly big. This can lead to the thin crack variation or the variation described by Tony. Nov 15, 2010
I did the thin crack variation near the top today. I'd say it is about 5.10 and definitely a fun way to do that section (rather than going right and then traversing back). It climbs differently than I anticipated from the ground. Dec 27, 2016
Jericho H
Buena Vista, CO
Jericho H   Buena Vista, CO
The thin crack right of direct west face is hard. Stay true, and it could be 12. Cut right in the crux moves to face holds, it will be 11+ or 12-. Small nuts or RPs. It has scarring from aid but doesn't looked freed yet. Could be wrong. I hope I am. Beautiful crack. Oct 21, 2018