Avg: 3 from 42 votes
|Type:||Trad, 72 ft (22 m)|
|FA:||Gerry Roach & Stan Shepherd, 1958, FFA Pat Ament and Gordy R|
|Page Views:||4,925 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||George Bell on Aug 1, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
Updated details may be found here.
Approach by taking the 3rd Flatiron access trail, and continue past the East face between the 2nd and 3rd Flatirons until you reach the west face of the 3rd. Alternatively, climb the east face first and after rapping you will be right at the start.
The climb is a half pitch long. It is more difficult and not as well protected as Friday's Folly, and the rock is also a little worse.
Start where the rap ends (left of the Friday's Folly crack) and scramble up to a steep face with a hangarless bolt (plus two other chopped bolts). This bolt provides the only protection for the first difficult stemming move. Soon you reach better handholds and a thin crack, move on up past a large detached block below a roof with an obvious thin crack above it. This block appears to be quite solid (the best pro is right behind it).
There is a piton at the start of the thin crack that you can clip. Don't climb the thin crack (would be quite hard), but use face holds to move up and right. Then traverse back left on big holds below a roof to the top of the thin crack. Easier moves then lead straight up a V-Slot to the eye bolt rappel anchor.
This cruxes on this route are short, but involve balancy moves with small handholds.