Type: Trad
FA: Matt Samet (possibly)
Page Views: 1,035 total · 5/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Aug 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details

Description

This is a "direct" start to the Winky Woo, the big, striated, hueco wall left of the Southwest Chimney on the back of the Third Flatiron. Start 50 feet left of the standard Winky Woo where a large pine tree grows near the wall. Work right along a seam, then cruise up and left to a break. Work up and right into good but crispy huecos to surmount the last of the overhanging climbing then amble up the jug-covered slab above. This route can be done in one long pitch, I think.

Protection

Take a decent selection of stoppers and TCUs for the lower bit as well as some large cams/tube chocks to protect the huecos through the steepest section. Basically your standard Eldo/Flatirons rack.

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
By climbing slightly off of the exact line (?), one can bring down the grade quite a bit. That whole wall in general feels most 5.8-5.9 on good holds and presents a myriad of climbing opportunities. Dec 1, 2014
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Back again today to find the proper start - bad rock and poor protection are there behind the tree where that route is supposed to start. It is better a bit off to the right in full sunshine anyway. Dec 7, 2014