Avg: 1.8 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||R. & J. Rossiter, 1990|
|Page Views:||2,391 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Sep 13, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
Updated details may be found here.
P1. Climb 65m up this slab as for the first pitch of College Dropout, but continue past the belay (5.6) to the base of a hefty crack and flake system. This is done on a 70m rope or with a small bit of simulclimbing. If you don't like that, break this into two pitches by belaying at one of the small trees along the way.
P2. Climb up and left into this bulging crack system, protecting on hand-sized cams. As the crack goes, it gets a little tighter then disappears as you try to gain the slab. Stem and cling up it. A good gear placement is available above, and there are good jams and jugs. This is a footwork oriented crux (5.10a). Pull onto the slab above and run for the summit (5.3). You should belay as far up as you can reach and still have a good belay... well past the "notch" in the side where the Northwest Passage joins the slab.... YMMV.
P3. Head for the top again. If you ran your 70m rope to the end on the last pitch, you'll probably reach it now, maybe with a few moves of simul-climbing. (5.3) Otherwise, belay and lead another pitch.
The original grade of this route was 5.10d, I believe. The most recent Rositer guidebook grades this at 5.10c. If this is a 5.10c, it may be on of the easiest 5.10c's I have ever done. Relative to the Northwest Passage (5.10a), it is FAR easier.... Anyway, my partner and I debated if this was a 5.10- or a 5.9+. I have listed this as a 5.10a as a compromise in his favor, as the book lists it as harder.
Disclaimer: It WILL be harder than 5.9+ for short people who can't reach the jugs on the slab above the bulge, but a good handjam is there that should keep it no harder than 5.10b.