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Routes in Third Flatiron

1911 Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blazing Biners T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dog's Head Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
East Face (Standard) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Face Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Extra Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Falcon's Fracture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feathers and Stone S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Friday's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Funny Games T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Greenman's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Holier than Thou S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inner Sanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Northwest Passage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pentaprance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Ph.D. Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rite Of Spring T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Saturday's Folly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sayonara T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shoyu State S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
South Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Super Woo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Thin Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Third Kingdom/Papillion T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Third World Zone T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Waiting For Columbus T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winky Woo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Wrongs of Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 650 ft, 4 pitches
FA: R. & J. Rossiter, 1990
Page Views: 1,837 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 13, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details


From the East Bench of the Third Flatiron, from where the Standard Route starts, go up and right on the ground to a diminuitive slab, below the main face. There are other ways to break down the pitches, but this is what we did:

P1. Climb 65m up this slab as for the first pitch of College Dropout, but continue past the belay (5.6) to the base of a hefty crack and flake system. This is done on a 70m rope or with a small bit of simulclimbing. If you don't like that, break this into two pitches by belaying at one of the small trees along the way.

P2. Climb up and left into this bulging crack system, protecting on hand-sized cams. As the crack goes, it gets a little tighter then disappears as you try to gain the slab. Stem and cling up it. A good gear placement is available above, and there are good jams and jugs. This is a footwork oriented crux (5.10a). Pull onto the slab above and run for the summit (5.3). You should belay as far up as you can reach and still have a good belay... well past the "notch" in the side where the Northwest Passage joins the slab.... YMMV.

P3. Head for the top again. If you ran your 70m rope to the end on the last pitch, you'll probably reach it now, maybe with a few moves of simul-climbing. (5.3) Otherwise, belay and lead another pitch.

The original grade of this route was 5.10d, I believe. The most recent Rositer guidebook grades this at 5.10c. If this is a 5.10c, it may be on of the easiest 5.10c's I have ever done. Relative to the Northwest Passage (5.10a), it is FAR easier.... Anyway, my partner and I debated if this was a 5.10- or a 5.9+. I have listed this as a 5.10a as a compromise in his favor, as the book lists it as harder.

Disclaimer: It WILL be harder than 5.9+ for short people who can't reach the jugs on the slab above the bulge, but a good handjam is there that should keep it no harder than 5.10b.


This is a bit runout on the slab parts, just like any other Flatiron. The crux crack/flake pitch protects quite well with a few cams from 0.75" - 3". You can get a 2-2.5" piece at your feet and hang on to get another 0.75-1.0" or 2" piece over your head for the crux, but that might be pumpy for some people.


Kris Holub
Boulder, Colorado
Kris Holub   Boulder, Colorado
Feels really soft for 10a, especially since it's more or a less a single move. The crux protects very well with a 0.75, and a locker hand jam just over the roof saves the day once the feet disappear. We approached this in a single, rope-stretching 60m pitch by climbing the right-facing dihedral/ramp to a semi-hanging belay right below the crack. This pitch would have been great, but excessive lichen kinda ruins it. Aug 31, 2013

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