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Routes in Third Flatiron

1911 Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blazing Biners T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dog's Head Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
East Face (Standard) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Face Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Extra Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Falcon's Fracture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feathers and Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friday's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Funny Games T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Greenman's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Holier than Thou S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inner Sanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Northwest Passage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pentaprance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Ph.D. Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rite Of Spring T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Saturday's Folly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sayonara T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shoyu State S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
South Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Super Woo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Thin Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Third Kingdom/Papillion T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Third World Zone T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Waiting For Columbus T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winky Woo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Wrongs of Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 188 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 7, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

The crux is all about getting off of the ground, and while there appear to be several ways to do this, none seemed easy. The route is height-dependent (to reach the first hold) and also weight-dependent (to pull up on the first hold).
With a foot on the rock behind you, and hands on the good slopers right of the crack, reach up into a little seam in the offset and get into it. Match hands and shoot for the obvious "jug" at the top of the crack. I found a few consecutive heal-hooks in slopers to the right to be key. YMMV. Once on the jug, protect again and climb up into a crack on vertical rock to low angle stone- then make your way up and over to join "Inner Sanctum."

Location

Arrive at the Upper South face of the 3rd Flatiron in the vicinity of the "S.W. Chimney" and "S. Chimney". Just downhill from the SW chimney, perhaps 50 meters and just 15 meters right of the pocketed dihedral that is the start of the South Chimney, there is a shallow, blocky, left-facing dihedral starting at the ground and rising up over a lower angle section to a right-facing steep corner. This is the start of "Inner Sanctum." Just right of this is the offset overhanging seam and flake start to "Thin Crack" which after the initial steep section (a few meters) goes up vertical rock for a total of 20 meters and then joins "Inner Sanctum"

Protection

Wisdom is required in placing pro on this route- be mindful that the starting flake may be questionable for smaller pieces and stick a fat one behind it... After that, take a standard light rack to 3".
I was able to "toss" a stopper into the crack from below and clip it before climbing the route, and then shot directly for the first jug before placing more protection.

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