Type: Trad
FA: McCarty, Wink, Kulstad, 1957
Page Views: 10,312 total · 37/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a classic Flatiron route, yet it is much different in nature than the standard Flatiron slab fare.

Possibly it is best approached after climbing the East Face and doing the rappel descent. Scramble down along the south face of the Third Flatiron for a couple hundred feet or so. Winky Woo climbs the steep and juggy wall to the left of the obvious Southwest Chimney.

For the standard start, begin just to the left of the SW Chimney, and angle up and left across the face, then climb straight up to the top. Basically follow the easiest way. If leading, you will need to work out a (semi-hanging?) belay somewhere. (Per Mike Schmitt: a rope-stretching 60m pitch will just reach the ledge at the top of the route.) If soloing, while this route is no harder than most east face slab routes, it is vertical and very exposed, thus a somewhat different game than one generally expects from a solo Flatiron jaunt. The easiest way isn't totally obvious, and some of the moves can be a little awkward and leaning.

High on the face, it is possible to step left into a chimney/gully, but the route stays on the face. At the top of the face, either continue up the ramp system and through Fatman's Frenzy to join the regular rappel route, or head down to the SW Chimney and rap (2 ropes to ground) or downclimb that.

Protection Suggest change

This is possibly a difficult climb to protect due to the nature of the rock. A couple #4 Friend sized cams and extra longer runners for slinging horns and threading holes could work in addition to the usual.