Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 819 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ross Swanson on Dec 29, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details

Description

George B. had the pencil description of this 5.11 jug haul, thin crux between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Step left after slanting roof to reach right-leaning flake, follow this clipping its pin and exit right.

I'm told there is a trad 12d to the left of this route.

Location

Taken from area description:

Approach via the Royal Arch Trail. As you climb steeply out of the riverbed, you'll notice a large, roof/block on your left after about 5-10 minutes. 150 feet further is a seasonal closure sign tacked to a tree. Drop into or contour around the gully here (a climber's trail is visible), then head up and north into the long gully leading north to the Upper Bench (this is listed as an alternate descent route for the 3rd in many guidebooks).

About halfway up the gully, you'll pass a small crag on the right (the south face has two bolts, the west face has "Holier than Thou," a 5.11 route past 4-5 bolts up the overhanging, huecoed face).

Protection

5 or 6 bolts, 1 pin. 2 bolt anchor. We rapped with a 50m.

Photos

The nut and SMC hanger on the second bolt are loose. The stud doesn't stick out very far, so there isn't much threading to hold the nut. Bring a wrench! Nevertheless, Ross took a fall onto it, and it held. As stated in the Funny Games description, back up the fixed pin, near the top, with tiny cams and stoppers. Jan 4, 2013
On August 12, 1989, after finishing our work day at Neptune Mountaineering, Tim Coats and I hiked up, finished bolting, and were able to send this route. That same evening "The Who" were performing at Folsom Field on their silver anniversary tour, and we could catch bits and pieces of their songs. On the hike back down, between the music, the moon, and the orange-glowing cloud, it left an indelible memory. Dec 22, 2014