Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown.
Page Views: 1,816 total · 10/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Aug 7, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details

Description

Blazing Biners may be worthwhile if you're in the area for Shoyu State, but even that could be debated. The climbing is good, but the problem is it is very contrived: The bolts force you to stay just right of obvious juggy holds.

To find the climb, see the description for Shoyu State. From the bottom of the ramp, scramble up about 25 feet and then place gear in a good crack below the lip of the roof. Grab a big positive hold and swing up onto the face and climb past three bolts to the slung horns. Try not to look left at the big holds.

Protection

Three bolts to an anchor (horn slung with webbing). Bring a cam in the Yellow or Red Alien range to protect the opening move.

Photos

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
I climbed right between bolts 1 and 2 and left between bolts 2 and 3, then diagonalled right to the top. On average, that's "belly up" to the bolts, but perhaps only 5.9. Perhaps, I used the "obvious jugs", but straight up past the bolts seemed pretty blank. Sep 2, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Note: the jugs are quite far off of the bolts, so there is a pretty obvious difference in the lines.
Straight up "belly to the bolts" is not as hard as you'd think. Tiny square edges and chips appear just as you need them. The climbing is quite good that way and the crux is actually encountered. 5.10a belly to the bolts. 5.9 otherwise. Nov 9, 2006
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10a
Climbed this today and 10a seems about right. It is tempting to stray left of the bolts, but it is not necessary. There is now a two bolt ASCA anchor above this climb just left of the horn which was slung in the past. Oct 29, 2007