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Crack of No Return
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 1.8 from 4
votes
Routes in The Bookmark
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37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Backflip T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bellyflop T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Between The Sheets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bookmark OW T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coleman's Complex T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crack of No Return T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dead in Bed T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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East Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fall Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fantasy Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Goose, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inside Straight T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Joy and Tribulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Klingon (with direct start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Manhole Cover T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Marginal Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Original Fantasy Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Penis Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Plan A T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rhythm Method T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Romulan Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Screamin' Eagles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Seams Like A Dream T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sidewinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Skid You Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sojourn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Son of a Pitch T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Star Trek T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Time Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Twiggy's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Virgin Spring T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wigglin' Fingies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | George Hurley and Dave Rearick, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 1,280 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | paco on Mar 31, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Crack of No Return is located on the Bookmark Pinnacle left of Son of a Pitch.
Start just left of Son of a Pitch and make a bouldery traverse left on great rock to reach the base of the Crack of No Return. I was lucky enough to do this with a nice, 2 foot deep, snow drift under the crux. Otherwise, a crash pad may be nice? After climbing a little ways into the actual crack, the climbing eases to steep 5.8 hands and a little wide stuff.
There is now also a direct start to this climb which eliminates the traverse and goes at 5.12ish?
Start just left of Son of a Pitch and make a bouldery traverse left on great rock to reach the base of the Crack of No Return. I was lucky enough to do this with a nice, 2 foot deep, snow drift under the crux. Otherwise, a crash pad may be nice? After climbing a little ways into the actual crack, the climbing eases to steep 5.8 hands and a little wide stuff.
There is now also a direct start to this climb which eliminates the traverse and goes at 5.12ish?
Photos
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