Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m)
GPS: 39.9304, -105.283
FA: Jim Erickson, solo, 1980
Page Views: 1,150 total · 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The obscure tour continues. Are you bored? Are you looking for another route to touch virgin-to-you rock in this crag paradise? "This route climbs the bulge and crack just to the right of P1 of Neon Lights" according to Rossiter's guide. Find this, um, er, ah, well, different pitch of rock high on the west side of the Bastille between Neon Lights' and Voodoo's first pitches.

I doubt this one sees Bastille-like action or even pitch one of Neon Lights traffic. This has scaly rock, a tough start, a high step, and a layback, for an appetizer. It gives you loads of respect for those who went before you. Then angle right towards an inviting roof. The sort-of-pockets in the roof above feels stiff for 5.9 and seems more like mortal-5.10b. Whew, give me a moment to catch my breath. Oh yeah, and there isn't much pro for this bit. Or, maybe Jim was smarter and didn't go this way. Continue on above with less-challenging terrain to the walk-off ledge, and don't knock any of those stacked blocks over near the top, please.

A TR might be less bold but possibly wiser.

Protection Suggest change

It is probably best to TR, or bring a standard Eldo rack.

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