Whiteman's Burden
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Bob D'Antonio, 1999 |
Page Views: | 2,995 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Peter Beal on Mar 27, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route is the rightmost of a trio of steep climbs on the far right side of Cactus, including Paleolithic Tool Traditions and Affluenza. It shares the first two bolts with Affluenza before moving right.
Start up some sketchy rock to a hard move on weird "popcorn" holds to a ledge. Thankfully the rock firms up for the crux which is a tricky crack. Above this the stone gets hollow and funky. The last bolt seems low and too far left and makes clipping the anchor extra exciting. Rick Thompson gives this route 4 stars in his book (it's even on the cover), but in my view it lacks sufficient independence of line or rock quality to be that good. It's worth a run, though.
Start up some sketchy rock to a hard move on weird "popcorn" holds to a ledge. Thankfully the rock firms up for the crux which is a tricky crack. Above this the stone gets hollow and funky. The last bolt seems low and too far left and makes clipping the anchor extra exciting. Rick Thompson gives this route 4 stars in his book (it's even on the cover), but in my view it lacks sufficient independence of line or rock quality to be that good. It's worth a run, though.
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