Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, 1999
Page Views: 1,740 total · 8/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Mar 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Description

This route is the rightmost of a trio of steep climbs on the far right side of Cactus, including Paleolithic Tool Traditions and Affluenza. It shares the first two bolts with Affluenza before moving right.

Start up some sketchy rock to a hard move on weird "popcorn" holds to a ledge. Thankfully the rock firms up for the crux which is a tricky crack. Above this the stone gets hollow and funky. The last bolt seems low and too far left and makes clipping the anchor extra exciting. Rick Thompson gives this route 4 stars in his book (it's even on the cover), but in my view it lacks sufficient independence of line or rock quality to be that good. It's worth a run, though.

Protection

8 bolts/anchor.

Photos

Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
This route is sustained climbing and hard to onsight as there are many holds which are just out of the line of sight, but nonetheless worth doing. The start may seem a little hard to the second bolt but 'kneebar' and you have the jug in no time. I personally would skip it but my friend decided to give it a go, pumpy from the ground up. Apr 12, 2002
I agree that this route is tricky to onsight. When I climb it I blow the first clip off. Its too out of line with the rest of the climb. The jug haul to the mantle I found not tough as long as you mantel farther left on the mantel shelf and just use some of the pockets on the face to help pull yourself up. It was moving past the mantel that I got confused on. Don't climb it straight up. Traverse up and right to an ok edge to clip from and then get a killer finger lock in the lower crack area to pull for the big holds. The rest is big and straightforward. Jun 1, 2002
Joe Collins
  5.11c
Joe Collins  
  5.11c
One of the best of the newer routes on Cactus Right. I'd give it 11c/d- considerably trickier and more sustained than the two hard-11s to the left, Paleolithic Tool Traditions and Affluenza. Jan 27, 2003
Thanks Bob. Great climb! Jan 1, 2005
This route is mega fun on super-solid rock. Sure it's not particularly hard or cruxy, but that's why it's only an 11. Well worth doing; great rock and movement. Apr 24, 2005
Hey Dan,

If this route is tricky to onsight, why are you spraying beta? Some of us like tricky onsights. Lucky for me, I didn't read this until after. Please consider editing or at least a disclaimer before your post.

Alex Nov 7, 2011
Pink Thunder
Sacramento, CA
Pink Thunder   Sacramento, CA
Quality route. I agree that it's tricky to onsight, so SPOILER ALERT: DO NOT READ THIS IF YOU DON'T WANT BETA.

The only real tricky part of the route came on the face after the big ledge. I popped off a couple times before I figured out I needed to switch my feet. Once I moved my right foot off the one good hold to the right in favor of a smaller one that was in line with the upper crack, I cruised it. But WARNING: it ain't over after you get to the jugs. My feet skated off as I was holding onto a sharp jug with my right hand, and I tore open three of my fingers and bled all over the upper part of the route. So anyone who climbs it after 1/11 might come across some dried blood on several of the upper holds. My apologies for this, but it couldn't really be helped.

That being said, I'd give the route two stars, but not three. Jan 11, 2014