Liming (黎明) Rock Climbing
|GPS:||27.026, 99.684 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Brandon Gottung on Oct 21, 2013 · Updates|
|Admins:||Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball|
World class crack climbing on bomber sandstone and a motherlode of sport routes on featured dolomitic sandstone.
Gorgeous sandstone walls rise above the village of Liming, featuring beautiful cracks that beg to be climbed. And with recent exploration, a wealth of high-quality sport climb has been developed on a few different rock types. With over 450 pitches established and a massive wealth of untapped potential, there is no shortage of world-class climbing.
In contrast to the cracks of Indian Creek, the cracks of Liming usually vary in size from jam to jam, piece to piece and actually have difficult crux moves. It's not rare for a single crack to have everything from fingers to off-width. There is everything from hard, clean single pitch routes to adventurous multi-pitch routes that demand the full arsenal of crack techniques. While vegetation climbing is integral to the Li Ming experience, established classics have cleaned up beautifully. Whether you are looking for full-out adventure, punishingly difficult trad or sport lines or casual roadside cragging, Li Ming has the goods.The climbing here is extremely varied. There are many fun routes in the 5.7 to 5.9 range, making Liming a good place to begin a crack climbing career. The majority of established routes are in the 5.10 to 5.11 range, many of which are clean and classic. There are dozens of beautiful 5.12s that demand a diverse skill set - from perfect finger cracks to offwidth roofs, from technical face to sustained dihedrals. And for the crushers out there, Liming has many high-end testpieces offering some of the hardest continuous crack climbing in the world and modern technical lines following discontinuous cracks. There are countless new hard lines waiting for discovery. Some are already cleaned and equipped just looking for a free ascent. And for the climbers that prefer long adventurous routes, there are many top-out routes between 150 and 200 meters with a lifetime of potential yet unexplored.
Beyond the Danxia sandstone, there are additional rock types that have been developed in the area, including a type of dolomitic sandstone and even granite. The new type of sandstone can be compared to the steep sport climbing in La Mojarra, Colombia. A newer mega-crag named El Dorado has been started and could become one of the largest sport climbing walls in China.
Liming is truly unique in its variety of rock types and styles of climbing. Pack the rack and the quickdraws and bring an over-sized crack shoe and a well-sized sport shoe and climb lots of great rock in one of the gems of the globe.
The most recent guide book is now available as a mobile app and can be purchased at rakkup.com.
Lisu Area: Pillars, Pinecrest Buttress, Primitive Buttress, Painted Wall
Pandora: Pandora & Southern Oracle
Dinner Wall: The Cave Area, Cretaceous Area
The Holidays: Space Mountain, Four Seasons
South Valley: The Diamond, Die Sternwarde, The Guardian, Indy Wall, Angel Wall, Bull Crag
Yangshuo Sports Climbers Crag: Censored Wall, Uncensored Wall, Sci-fi wall, Wifi Wall, Turtle Buttress, El Dorado, Goat Rodeo Wall, Rainbow Cove
One Dragon Area: Old Dragon Buttress, The Watchtower
If you want to get an idea of what the place looks like, here's a well made video worth a gander: Li Ming Video
The main developer, Mike Dobie, has meticulously documented Liming development in his guidebook Liming Rock. Don't expect these MP pages to ever compare - more than 450 pitches are featured in the guidebook, with beautiful photographs and clear directions to access Li Ming and all the crags. Li Ming Rock Version 6 is available as of Feb 2017 direct from Mike; contact him at firstname.lastname@example.org. The most recent guide book is now available as a mobile app and can be purchased at rakkup.com.
Bring athletic tape, especially if you are new to crack climbing, to protect your precious skin since you won't be able to buy it in Liming. The rock is very coarse; handjams can grind finger tips thin, making a skin salve highly recommended.
If you are looking to do first ascents, bring some long 12mm (1/2 inch) bolts. Stainless steel would be ideal, but as the climate is mostly dry, plated-steel should have a long life. A hand-drill works very well - 8 minutes or so for a 12mm hole 10cm deep. Low quality hammers, brushes, and gloves can be purchased for cheap in Li Ming. Pins and beaks aren't necessary from my experience. Wide gear (Big Bros, Valley Giant) is nice to have, there are lots of unclimbed offwidths. Tat is not necessary - climbers have left a large pile of old ropes upstairs at the Faraway - a valuable community resource. Be sure to bring fatty rap rings and old biners. Nut tools are very useful for cleaning out cracks; other useful tools like little hoes and saws can be purchased in Li Ming.
Lijiang has three buses stations. You need the one on Changshui Rd (长水路) just west of Minzhu Rd (民主路) for the minivan-buses to Li Ming.
Show this picture to any taxi driver, they'll know where it is. It costs less than 10 yuan.
From the Lijiang train station, bus #18 can be taken to the second to last stop, leaving a 100 meter walk west to the bus station.
Regular buses run from Lijiang to Li Ming for 40 yuan. Oftentimes you have to switch buses in Zhongxing (种兴). Shigu (石鼓), a recently unearthed limestone crag with large multipitch potential is along the road to Zhongxing. From Zhongxing, regular buses run the 25 kilometers to Liming.
If you're looking for a good adventure and traveling light, hitchhiking in China is extremely effective and fascinating.
Liming has a semi-arid climate characterized by summer monsoons. The rainy season generally runs from June through early October. By mid-October, blue-skies and stable dry weather dominate. Fall rain events typically consist of a period of 2 to 5 days of cloudy weather with occasional light rain, which doesn't interfere with climbing too much. Fall tempertures generally fluctuate between 0 - 5 °C at night and 15 - 25 °C during the day. Evaporative cooling makes dawn exceptionally cold, but the high elevation sun quickly warms the valley. In winter, climbing is limited to south facing cliffs, making mid-December through January a less-than-ideal yet managable time for climbing. By the Chinese New Year, the higher angle of the sun increases direct sunlight and warms the valley. I've heard March described as the best month for climbing with warmer nighttime temperatures and more clouds than in fall, making it easier to climb any aspect, though periodic rains may necessitate rest days. By late May, humidity and precipitation ramp up and by mid-June, monsoons end the climbing season.
Food, Water, Shelter
Bring a water bottle that you feel comfortable pouring boiling water into. That's the cheapest easiest way to get drinking water. Otherwise treat it or buy bottles at the shops. Tea and hot water are widely available. You can hunt down Yunnan grown coffee in Lijiang but are better off bringing it along if you drink coffee. Nescafe, however, is sold at all the shops in Li Ming. Protein drink powders mix very well with the walnut milk and date-flavored milk, making for great energy for the crag.
The main two places climbers stay at is the Faraway Hotel and Tourist Services dorm rooms. Faraway charges 20-30 RMB for dorm beds and 60-100 RMB for rooms. The youth hostel beds are 20 RMB. Fancier pricier options are also available.
Faraway Inn can help organize rides to the distant crags like Centered Crags, Guardian, El Dorado and Rainbow Cove. It's also possible to rent a motorcycle, contact Mike at email@example.com for details.
RIP 2018. The late, great Jerry in his element. He was the biggest and most loved. He always wanted to join climbers out to the crag, but got himself into trouble and was restricted to a leash before he passed.
Ding Dong, equally famous, also lives at Faraway and usually follows out the first of the climbers to leave. He is a bad ass - he got hit by a car apparently breaking his hip and then 5 days later, hiked to the top-out of the Dawn Chimney when we went cleaning! Routes named after him are good.
Chángwěi, Long Tail, chases after cars and motorbikes with brilliant precision. Phenomenal crag dog. There aren't any climbs named after him yet.
Classic Climbing Routes at Liming (黎明)
Days w Precip