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Routes in Pinecrest Buttress

Boy with a Coin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Foe-Hammer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gore T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Great Owl, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reckoning, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scarface II T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 247 total · 5/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Oct 27, 2013
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

Sweet hands roof out of a wide slot to a perfect less-than-vertical right-leaning hands splitter.

Best to link into the roof above that is Gore now that a new anchor has been added there allowing for an easy lower to the ground (knot the rope it's a full 30 meters).

Protection

Double .75 to #3, #4 and optional #5.

Photos

Cedric BG
New York, New York
 
Cedric BG   New York, New York
 
Sweet, sweet, aesthetic route, with a good opening roof to wake you up in the morning. Here's my gear beta:
Triple #1, #2, double #3, #4, and single #5. 6 days ago
Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, Thailand
  5.10+
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, Thailand
  5.10+
Definitely one of my favorite pitch during my stay in LiMing.

I did not place anything smaller than a #1 Apr 23, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10
This was my favorite 5.10 of our month-long trip. The #5 was mandatory for me, but didn't need anything smaller than #1. Another anchor setup that will twist the shit out of your rope too. Nov 10, 2016
RyderS Stroud
Dali, Yunnan Province, China
RyderS Stroud   Dali, Yunnan Province, China
An über route from start to finish! There's good reason why this route graces the cover of newest edition of the Liming guidebook!

A handcrack roof right off the deck (don't get spooked, the jams are awesome) will deposit you beneath the amazing sickle-shaped crack. Pull through the widest portion, and the crack will cut back towards a small overhang, angling right towards the top of Boy with a Coin. Continue on the secure jams (smaller folks may find it more rattly) to the anchor shared with Boy with a Coin. This can be a classic first pitch to Gore, which together make for a great outing to get to the top of Pinecrest Buttress. Apr 14, 2015