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Routes in Censored Wall

Oh! Chemical Chance! Chemical Chance ... Fate and Destiny! Fate and Destiny ... BIG BANG! T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tetragrammaton T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Throw Your Legs Around My Shoulders and Let Me Wear You Like A Feedbag T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Mike Dobie
Page Views: 221 total, 9/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Jan 7, 2016
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

The "Feedbag" is a wonderful handcrack with enough variety to keep it exciting the whole way.

Start with some unprotected slabby progress to access the roof / flare feature. Set some bomber gear and pull these cruxy moves into the fist-crack flare that narrows into a long handcrack that tops out the pillar. From the top of the pillar, continue with another 5 meters of thoughtful face and discontinuous crack climbing.

Take care with lowering and rappelling! This route is 37 meters long and some 70's provide enough rope but some 70's don't and may require some shenanigans. Make sure to tie a knot to close the system. A tumble here could be devastating.

Location

Right side of the Censored Wall, just right of the wide splitter "I Like My Rockstars Dead." 3 meters left of Tetragrammaton.

Protection

70 meter rope! Double set from .3 to #3. One #4. Bring extra tighthands and hands size pieces if you want to sew it up.

Photos

Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, Thailand
  5.10+
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, Thailand
  5.10+
The start could really use a bolt. It felt pretty dicey for me.

Regardless this was a great climb and no doubt a classic. Apr 23, 2017