Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Matt Segal
Page Views: 412 total · 7/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Nov 1, 2013
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Techy right-trending start into the wonderful left-leaning fingers corner. For a full-value 30 m pitch, link up into the varied crack above that is the second pitch of Screaming at the Moon.

Location

Right of approach trail in the lovely corridor created by the giant boulders.

Protection

In camalots: .1-#1. Double up on .3-.75. Bring a couple #3s and #4s and one #5 for the link-up into Screaming at the Moon.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
Personally felt this route was incredibly easy relative to others of the given grade. This cannot possibly be harder than Wind of the Valley (10+), which is basically the same except 60' longer and with fewer rests. You can also start the route directly instead of traversing in, which doesn't change the grade. If you don't have a #.1, two #.2 will be fine for the start. Nov 10, 2016
Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, TH
  5.10+
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, TH
  5.10+
Agree with Nate's comment above. This thing has good stance all over the place and i do feel that Wind of the valley was much more of a sustain climb.

A nice ego-stroke, though. Apr 23, 2017