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Routes in Pillars area

Air China T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Born to Be Wild T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bush Remedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clam Digger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clam Digger "Direct" T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dancing with Dragons T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dawn Chimney, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Decepticon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ding Dong Goes To USA T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Don't Be A Pussy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dungeons and Dragons T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Faraway Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Funky Dan, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Men In Tights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morass T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Crescent T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Over the Rainbow T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Screaming at the Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming at the Moon (half) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Staircase of the Elves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Swan Song T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBRR, full route) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Zhoulei's Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Matt Segal
Page Views: 232 total, 5/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Nov 1, 2013
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Techy right-trending start into the wonderful left-leaning fingers corner. For a full-value 30 m pitch, link up into the varied crack above that is the second pitch of Screaming at the Moon.

Location

Right of approach trail in the lovely corridor created by the giant boulders.

Protection

In camalots: .1-#1. Double up on .3-.75. Bring a couple #3s and #4s and one #5 for the link-up into Screaming at the Moon.

Photos

Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, Thailand
  5.10+
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, Thailand
  5.10+
Agree with Nate's comment above. This thing has good stance all over the place and i do feel that Wind of the valley was much more of a sustain climb.

A nice ego-stroke, though. Apr 23, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
Personally felt this route was incredibly easy relative to others of the given grade. This cannot possibly be harder than Wind of the Valley (10+), which is basically the same except 60' longer and with fewer rests. You can also start the route directly instead of traversing in, which doesn't change the grade. If you don't have a #.1, two #.2 will be fine for the start. Nov 10, 2016