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Routes in Pillars area

Air China T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Born to Be Wild T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bush Remedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clam Digger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clam Digger "Direct" T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dancing with Dragons T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dawn Chimney, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Decepticon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ding Dong Goes To USA T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Don't Be A Pussy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dungeons and Dragons T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funky Dan, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Men In Tights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morass T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Crescent T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Over the Rainbow T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Screaming at the Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming at the Moon (half) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Staircase of the Elves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Swan Song T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBRR, full route) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Zhoulei's Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: FFA: Raul Sauco
Page Views: 169 total · 5/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Dec 15, 2015
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Dungeons and Dragons is the must-do extension to Dancing with Dragons that really climbs like an entirely different pitch. With crack of all sizes from less-than-tips to a massive offwidth roof - this pitch delivers!

A lovely tips crack trends left into a cool acute corner up through some easy, runnout, dirty terrain to below the giant roof. Best to not clip the first anchor and instead place a #4 and #3 up in the roof. Powerful lieback underclings leads to the crux, pulling past the lip, requiring awesome kneebars and fun trickery. Finish up the offwidth and through the second, airy roof above.

Raul gave this route a 5.9, I give it 11+. You decide.

Location

Dungeons and Dragons in the obvious roof looming above Dancing with Dragons, on the right side of the Pillars area.

Protection

A single set from less-than-tips to #6 will protect the whole route well. Extra off-fingers useful.

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