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Routes in Pillars area

Air China T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Born to Be Wild T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bush Remedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clam Digger T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clam Digger "Direct" T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dancing with Dragons T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dawn Chimney, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Decepticon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ding Dong Goes To USA T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Don't Be A Pussy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dungeons and Dragons T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Faraway Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Funky Dan, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Men In Tights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morass T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Crescent T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Over the Rainbow T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Screaming at the Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming at the Moon (half) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Staircase of the Elves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Swan Song T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBRR, full route) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Zhoulei's Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 88 total · 4/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Nov 10, 2016
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Short but high-quality hand-crack corner. From the nook at the gully, pull up onto the small ledge to the right, below the crack. Chimney and/or stem upwards, using the feature on the left, until the crack thins from 4" to good hands. Move up this for a few moves, using face holds and edges as they make themselves available. A short section of tight-hands may provide a slight crux before it widens to good hands again.

The anchor used to be a single manky yellow rope hanging from the rappel-tree set about 10m back from the edge. This has since (as of 10/2016) been made unnecessary with the addition of a redundant webbing anchor off of a bush closer to the edge, which now hangs over the lip, with a biner at the anchor point. This facilitates easy TRing and lowering. You can still use the yellow rope to get up to the ledge and continue through the bush to setup top-ropes on routes to the left.

Location

At the back of the gully between Dancing with Dragons and Bush Remedy. Scramble up behind the big tree to a flat alcove.

Protection

#1-4, double 1-2

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