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Routes in Pillars area

Air China T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Born to Be Wild T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bush Remedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clam Digger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clam Digger "Direct" T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dancing with Dragons T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dawn Chimney, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Decepticon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ding Dong Goes To USA T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Don't Be A Pussy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dungeons and Dragons T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Faraway Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Funky Dan, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Men In Tights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morass T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Crescent T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Over the Rainbow T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Screaming at the Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming at the Moon (half) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Staircase of the Elves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Swan Song T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBRR, full route) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Zhoulei's Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mike Dobie
Page Views: 105 total · 3/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Jun 3, 2015
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

An excellent corner crack climb with an equally cool (if not cooler) variation start. Begin to the left of the corner/chimney of Men in Tights. You will see a big right-facing corner capped with a wide roof and a left-leaning splitter crack to its right.

P1 (5.10a/b): Scramble up to a dirt terrace where the corner begins with a wide-ish crack (good jams in back), surmount this wide section and the corner will quickly thin to fingers and wide fingers. Jam your way up to a rest and a brief widening of the crack (hands). From here, the crack will thin int more fingers and slicker feet. Surmount this section and the crack will begin to flare in back before widening to a slot with loose rock in back. Make a few moves using mostly the crack and gain easier terrain on slotted blocks (still, make sure to check your stances). Follow ledge-y terrain to the chains in an alcove on your left beneath the roof.

Variation start: Rather than scrambling up to the dirt terrace for the standard start, begin on the left-leaning splitter crack that begins right off the ground. Jam through skinny fingers with the occasional pod, to where the crack tapers and eventually disappears. At this point, make a long reach left to rejoin the corner.

P2 (ostensibly 5.9, though actually 5.11+): Climb out the cave on the wide crack exiting the roof right. Make strenuous, exposed wide moves out from the belay and turn the roof where the crack thins into a steep dihedral. Hard exposed moves will put you onto vertical terrain that will terminate in a terrace with a bolt belay.

Location

Left of Men in Tights, and a 1-2 minute walk right from Morass

Protection

P1: TCUs 0-1, doubles .3-.75, single 1, single or double 2, single 3-4

P2: Add wide gear, another 4 and a 5

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