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Routes in Pillars area

Air China T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Born to Be Wild T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bush Remedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clam Digger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clam Digger "Direct" T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dancing with Dragons T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dawn Chimney, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Decepticon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ding Dong Goes To USA T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Don't Be A Pussy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dungeons and Dragons T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Faraway Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Funky Dan, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Men In Tights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morass T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Crescent T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Over the Rainbow T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Screaming at the Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming at the Moon (half) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Staircase of the Elves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Swan Song T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBRR, full route) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Zhoulei's Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Eben Farnworth 2012 FFA David Hood 2014
Page Views: 73 total · 3/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Dec 15, 2015
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

While Orange Crescent does not live up to its 5 stars seen in the guidebook, it is an awesome corner that is worth the tedious access, especially if Faraway Corner is one of your favorites.

Orange Crescent is a clean, right-angled corner with fists slowly tapering down through hands to fingers to a cool thin finish.

Location

Walk up valley (climbers right) from Dancing with Dragons and Over the Rainbow to where the trail cliffs out with a four bolt traverse. Rack up here. It is not really worth shoe-ing up to free this bit, but it does offer a move at 5.11 if you want. Otherwise just carry the climbing shoes and aid across. There is a comfortable vegetation-and-dirt belay ledge below Orange Crescent.

For a descent, its fastest combining the rappel and the traverse providing unique opportunity for clever rope work.

Protection

(1).2-.4, (2).5-4. Small stoppers also work.

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