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Routes in Pillars area

Air China T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Born to Be Wild T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bush Remedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clam Digger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clam Digger "Direct" T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dancing with Dragons T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dawn Chimney, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Decepticon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ding Dong Goes To USA T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Don't Be A Pussy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dungeons and Dragons T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Faraway Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Funky Dan, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Men In Tights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morass T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Crescent T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Over the Rainbow T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Screaming at the Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming at the Moon (half) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Staircase of the Elves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Swan Song T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBRR, full route) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Zhoulei's Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Eben Farnworth
Page Views: 126 total, 4/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Dec 27, 2014
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

This climb will rely less on the crack climbing technique that defines Liming climbing and more on your ability to boulder high off the deck.

Start up the corner that leads to a finger tips-sized roof crack located to the left of the inverted roof offwidth "Over the Rainbow." Jam and squeeze your way to a nice rest ledge beneath the roof (corner crack could use more cleaning).

Place some gear over your head and/or out into the crack (place longer runners on the initial pieces to avoid rope drag) and traverse out the pumpy roof crack. Reach overhead and turn the roof with some gymnastic "oomf" to find a decent hold, and contort your way to a standing position using a faint crack above the roof. The chains will be just above.

Location

To the left of the massive offwidth roof of "Over the Rainbow" and to the right of "Dirt Devil."

Protection

Single #2 C3 (yellow)
Single #.1 (X4; optional)
Triple #.3
Single #.4
Single #2
Single #3

Photos

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