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Routes in Pillars area

Air China T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Born to Be Wild T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bush Remedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clam Digger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clam Digger "Direct" T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dancing with Dragons T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dawn Chimney, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Decepticon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ding Dong Goes To USA T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Don't Be A Pussy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dungeons and Dragons T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Faraway Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Funky Dan, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Men In Tights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morass T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Crescent T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Over the Rainbow T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Screaming at the Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming at the Moon (half) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Staircase of the Elves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Swan Song T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBRR, full route) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Zhoulei's Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Logan Barber
Page Views: 63 total, 5/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Dec 23, 2016
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

This route begins with the short route sometimes referred to as Zhoulei's Flake (after the FA-ist; also referred to as "half" of YBRR).

Jam your way up an awkward right-facing flake to a nice stance beneath a small overlap. Bust out a few brief tugs and land yourself at the old chains on a big ledge. The crux follows the three bolts up and left.

Climb through some steep, thin face climbing along a rail to where the steep face meets the ramp of Highway to Hell. Fire the last few powerful moves to gain the ramp and follow the top half of Highway to Hell (fun and balance-y!) to where the ramp ends. Make an awesome exposed move across the gap to the chains shared with Screaming at the Moon.

You can opt to belay from the chains or lower and belay from the ground (70m rope recommended). Either way, your belayer/ will have to clean the route, since it wanders significantly from left to right.

Location

Just left of Faraway Corner and Screaming at the Moon

Protection

Gear from TCU/C3 #00- C4 #3, advisable to bring doubles of tips (#.2 X4 or 0 TCU) to wide fingers (#.5)

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