Elevation: 7,637 ft
GPS: 27.02273, 99.68056
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 41,347 total · 437/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Dec 15, 2015
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

Description

The Lisu Area is, by far, most concentrated and popular crag in Li Ming, including the comfortable Pillars area, multipitch crag Primitive Buttress and the smaller but stacked Pinecrest Buttress. The Painted Wall is also grouped in the Lisu Area, but is accessed by going right from the stairs.

The Lisu Area is a great first-day climbing in Li Ming, with high quality routes from 5.8 to 5.13 of all crack sizes imaginable from the thin and technical to the wide and burly. The Lisu Area offers good options for chasing sun or shade depending on weather, making conditions comfortable throughout the whole Li Ming climbing season. There is enough here to keep most climbers busy for a month, without ever visiting the other crags.

Getting There

Casual 30 minute walk from Liming village. Head southwest, away from park entrance, for a little over a kilometer. Turn east, at the "Anqini Scenic Lookout 安七尼" sign, down towards the river, across a stone bridge and up the giant fake-wood staircase that leads to a cave and via-ferrata. At the obvious split boulder, there is a new sign pointing left towards Pillars, Primitive and Pinecrest areas. For the shadier Painted Wall, turn right at split boulder and take the faint trail up a large, obvious switchback over the conglomerate layer.

45 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lisu Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
The Great Owl
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Screaming at the Moon (half)
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 10
Dancing with Dragons
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 26
Scarface II
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Morass
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
Clam Digger
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 12
Gore
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 9
Boy with a Coin
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
Faraway Corner
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Screaming at the Faraway Corner
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 10
The Raven
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 14
Clam Digger "Direct"
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
 15
Back to the Primitive
Trad, Aid 8 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
The Reckoning
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
The Funky Dan
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Owl Pinecrest Buttress
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Screaming at the Moon (half) Pillars area
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Dancing with Dragons Pillars area
 10
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Scarface II Pinecrest Buttress
 26
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Morass Pillars area
 20
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Clam Digger Pillars area
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Gore Pinecrest Buttress
 12
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Boy with a Coin Pinecrest Buttress
 9
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Faraway Corner Pillars area
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Screaming at the Faraway Co… Pillars area
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
The Raven Primitive Buttress
 10
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Clam Digger "Direct" Pillars area
 14
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Back to the Primitive Primitive Buttress
 15
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 Trad, Aid 8 pitches
The Reckoning Pinecrest Buttress
 7
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
The Funky Dan Pillars area
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lisu Area »

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