Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Nick Sullens
Page Views: 649 total · 11/month
Shared By: Nick Sullens on Jan 5, 2014
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

A classic dihedral route! Easy climbing up to the start of the thin crack in the dihedral, followed by scary low 11 climbing protected by blue tcu's and .3's. One crux low at about 11c, followed by an easy hand crack to a small ledge. The second crux is the tough bit and involves funky stemming and palming to bypass a section where the crack thins to nothingness. Awesome and sustained.

Location

The next route to the right of Sandworm and maybe 20 meters before the Staircase of the Elves. Look for a long left facing corner. Cleaned and equipped by Mike Dobie ( Thanks dude!).

Protection

Gear from 00 to 3. Single 00, 1, and 2. 6-7 .3/ blue tcu's, 2 each from .5 to .75 and #3s. A # 7 nut for the upper section is nice.

Photos

Brandon Gottung
currently Las Cruces, NM
 
Brandon Gottung   currently Las Cruces, NM
 
Amazing route - one of the highlights of the trip. Nice work Nick! I just want to chime in that it has cleaned up well and nothing PG13 about it - bomber gear the whole way. Plus you can place a whole set of stoppers on it! Dec 14, 2015