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Routes in Pillars area

Air China T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Born to Be Wild T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bush Remedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clam Digger T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clam Digger "Direct" T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dancing with Dragons T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dawn Chimney, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Decepticon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ding Dong Goes To USA T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Don't Be A Pussy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dungeons and Dragons T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Faraway Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Funky Dan, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Men In Tights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morass T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Crescent T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Over the Rainbow T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Screaming at the Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming at the Moon (half) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Staircase of the Elves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Swan Song T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBRR, full route) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Zhoulei's Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Nick Sullens
Page Views: 589 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nick Sullens on Jan 5, 2014
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

A classic dihedral route! Easy climbing up to the start of the thin crack in the dihedral, followed by scary low 11 climbing protected by blue tcu's and .3's. One crux low at about 11c, followed by an easy hand crack to a small ledge. The second crux is the tough bit and involves funky stemming and palming to bypass a section where the crack thins to nothingness. Awesome and sustained.

Location

The next route to the right of Sandworm and maybe 20 meters before the Staircase of the Elves. Look for a long left facing corner. Cleaned and equipped by Mike Dobie ( Thanks dude!).

Protection

Gear from 00 to 3. Single 00, 1, and 2. 6-7 .3/ blue tcu's, 2 each from .5 to .75 and #3s. A # 7 nut for the upper section is nice.

Photos

Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
 
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
 
Amazing route - one of the highlights of the trip. Nice work Nick! I just want to chime in that it has cleaned up well and nothing PG13 about it - bomber gear the whole way. Plus you can place a whole set of stoppers on it! Dec 14, 2015

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