Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pillars area

Air China T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Born to Be Wild T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bush Remedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clam Digger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clam Digger "Direct" T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dancing with Dragons T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dawn Chimney, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Decepticon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ding Dong Goes To USA T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Don't Be A Pussy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dungeons and Dragons T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Faraway Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Funky Dan, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Men In Tights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morass T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Crescent T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Over the Rainbow T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Screaming at the Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming at the Moon (half) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Staircase of the Elves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Swan Song T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBRR, full route) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Zhoulei's Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Mike Dobie
Page Views: 203 total, 4/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Nov 1, 2013
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Fun and varied climbing up a solid flake. Rests are plentiful. Makes a great warmup for the harder finger cracks in the Lisu Area.

Location

Right of where approach trail deposits you along the cliff, just right of Faraway Corner.

Protection

Doubles .3-#3. Optional #4. In camalots.

Photos

Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, Thailand
  5.10
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, Thailand
  5.10
This thing does feel like a sport climb. One can get through this w/o much jamming so long as the placements are solid.

I personally did not place anything bigger than a #2 C4 Apr 23, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
Very soft for the grade in my opinion. Also, I would recommend #.2-4, no doubles necessary. Nov 11, 2016
RyderS Stroud
Dali, Yunnan Province, China
RyderS Stroud   Dali, Yunnan Province, China
A great route with movement of both trad and sport climbing. Begin by liebacking up a solid flake until it terminates on some slopey, awkward ledges marked with a skinny crack. Get atop these wakward ledges with a combo of face and crack until a left-facing crack-corner opens on your right. Jam up through this crack towards a pedestal beneath the chains. Getting up on top of the pedestal can be awkward if you miss some hidden good holds.

No gear to lower from. Rap clean the route. May 9, 2015