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Routes in Pillars area

Air China T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Born to Be Wild T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bush Remedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clam Digger T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clam Digger "Direct" T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dancing with Dragons T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dawn Chimney, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Decepticon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ding Dong Goes To USA T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Don't Be A Pussy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dungeons and Dragons T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Faraway Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Funky Dan, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Men In Tights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morass T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Crescent T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Over the Rainbow T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Screaming at the Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming at the Moon (half) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Staircase of the Elves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Swan Song T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBRR, full route) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Zhoulei's Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mike Dobie
Page Views: 359 total · 8/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Apr 14, 2015
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

A great link-up climb that is seldom done. It can be done in two 15-meter pitches or one, long 30-meter pitch. Doing it in one is highly recommended!

This link-up gives you everything. Traversing, sporty liebacking, crack climbing, and even a tasty bit of off-widthing.

Begin at the right-arching traversing crack of Faraway Corner, which is 10 feet right to the first pitch flake of Screaming at the Moon. Traverse into the left-leaning corner crack. Some sporty face moves will deposit you in a left-facing, left-leaning lieback crack. Torque some narrow finger jams, finagling rests where you can, and continue through the slowly widening crack. The crack will expand to thin-hands and lead to a big ledge. You can opt to belay here, or if you brought all the gear with you, continue up the wide crack above (recommended).

From the ledge, continue up the wide crack with some awkward moves off the ledge. Fists and wider crack climbing will give way to a few moderate OW moves that can be mitigated with x-ray climbing vision on the faces. This will bring you to a thin rock fin (be gentle with it) at the top of the crack and then deposit you onto a small, slabby face, where you will find a bolted anchor station.

A 60m rope will barely make the ground. We did it with a 70m for some extra insurance. The rappel may be split into two-shorter rappels using the Faraway Corner anchor station.

Location

From the approach trail fork at the base of the Pillars area, turn right. You will reach a big, sandy ledge after a minute or so. Faraway Corner is the big, left-leaning corner crack in the middle of the area across from the eponymous fallen pillars.

Protection

- One #1 C3 (optional)
- Two #.3s
- One or two #.4s
- Two #.5s
- Two #.75s
- One #1
- One #2
- Two #3s
- Two or three #4s
- One #5

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