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Routes in Pillars area

Air China T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Born to Be Wild T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bush Remedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clam Digger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clam Digger "Direct" T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dancing with Dragons T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dawn Chimney, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Decepticon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ding Dong Goes To USA T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Don't Be A Pussy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dungeons and Dragons T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Faraway Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Funky Dan, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Men In Tights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morass T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Crescent T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Over the Rainbow T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Screaming at the Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming at the Moon (half) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Staircase of the Elves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Swan Song T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBRR, full route) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Zhoulei's Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 46 total, 4/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Nov 10, 2016
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Wide crack up to fingers, then left to a small pedestal with a little cave up and left. Standing atop this you can reach good hands above it. Use this and find small feet, stem out and up to small edges behind the flake. Make a delicate move up to a locker finger-jam (reachy) then up to jugs and a ledge. Clip out right to the anchor with spinner hangers - the bolts were not installed at 90-degrees thus the nuts aren't flush with the hanger. Oh well.

Can be continued up bolts on face above at 5.11 or something.

Location

Main area of the Pillars, wide crack start just left of Screaming at the Moon

Protection

#.3-.5, 2, 4, double #.3

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