Type: Trad, 690 ft (209 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Adam Pecan, Brandon Gottung. December 2, 2015.
Page Views: 797 total · 12/month
Shared By: Adam Pecan on Dec 14, 2015
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

The Dawn Chimney climbs the unmistakeable red hanging flake of the Lisu area. Not really a chimney, but you sure will use a ton of stemming and chimney technique. First aided to the top of the flake by Griff in 2012, the line now goes free to the rim. Wildly exposed, sustained, and adventuresome climbing. Think Moab area tower route. Bring the camera to take pictures of your buddies on the classic Back to the Primitive.

See too photo

P1. Start via the classic Clam Digger and step right to its first anchor. 5.10c

P2. Step right to climb Attempted Suicide (gear through 5). Bolted anchor. 5.11-

P3. Traverse left and then right up a dirt ramp, pulling a move or two, to belay at a tree with a sling. 5.4

P4. Step right and climb blocks to a fun finger crack. More moderate terrain leads to a bolted belay beneath the flake. 5.8

P5. Bombay roof traverse. WILD. Tight fingers off the belay through a small roof. Clip a bolt, bury the #5 in the constriction, and layback or ow up into the bombay. Secure, though be prepared to climb above your #5. A 6 may buy you a few more feet but wouldn’t be used anywhere else on the climb. Traverse out of the flake clipping a bolt, pass a hanging belay, and step right to the amazing perch on the edge of the flake (six star belay). Bring some long runners. 10+ pg13? 25m

P6. Chimney, jam, and stem with great exposure past three bolts, over a bulge, and onto a ledge. Either head straight up at 10+ through easy ow to an off fingers bulge or step left for more exposure and climb the steep fingers to thin hand flake at 5.11 (Beware, top of the flake is detached, step right at this point). Tunnel behind a large refrigerator chockstone, passing a bolted belay, and climb the triple cracks in beautiful rock to the anchor. 5.10+. 35m

P7. Carefully head up the bottomless chimney through loose terrain toward a tree growing sideways out of the chimney. Note for belayer: Wear or helmet or better, tether in long and stay sheltered under the roof to the right. Sling the tree and traverse left toward the lip to find a splitter tips and finger crack! Follow this out of the chimney and up a beautiful corner with bottlenecks for large stoppers. (Corner opens up behind the crack, but you can protect it well if you hunt for it) Gear belay on ledge. 5.10 pg 40m

P8. It ain't over till it's over! Stem and jam through a hands/fist bulge off the belay and up the corner above. Bring the 4s and 5. Head up a final steep v slot with some thin pro to top out. Belay at the dead tree back and left (should have a rope on it). 10+. 20m

Descent
You can rap with a 70 from the top of p6 (but why would you?) After that you must top out. Walk off as per Back to the Primitive/ Lost World. Walk right for no more than 10 m then head uphill via slabs in a clearing. Trend uphill and left skirting the crest of the hill on its right side. Find faint trail that heads down and left to the drainage on the back side of the hill. You don't want to find this in the dark.

Protection

Singles: 0TCU, #5 camalot (used on p2, 5, and 8) Optional #6 for p5
Doubles: 1TCU - #4 camalot
Triples: .5, .75, optional #1 camalot for p1 (or use fingers piece)
A few med-lg stoppers (mostly for p7)

Photos