Avg: 3.9 from 14 votes
|Type:||Trad, 85 ft (26 m)|
|Page Views:||1,425 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Ryder Stroud on Dec 27, 2014 · Updates|
|Admins:||Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball|
This route is the lovechild of a body slot, squeeze chimney, and an offwidth AND there is a handcrack in back, useful only if you can reach it! Be prepared to feel like you have just sprinted a 10k race! This route will leave you full-body tired...
Begin by wedging yourself into this giant overlap and proceed to brawl your way through the lower crux with a combo of chimney and offwidth technique. Rests will only come with good technique and body position. Pass some miniscule faceholds and get crafty moving in towards the handcrack and back out towards the arete of the clam.
Squirm your way up to the 5.10 exit move (the old bolt protecting the 5.10 exit has been chopped) and keep forging upwards towards a flared pod. Above the 5.10 exit, the crack at the back of the slot will thin and the overlap/"clam" will squeeze you into increasingly strenuous positions. Reach the chains before your quads and calves give out.
Note 1: This 5.11 extension is better for top roping than the original 5.10 finish.
Note 2: Rack up wisely. Poorly racked harnesses will be a nuisance on this route.