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Routes in Pillars area

Air China T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Born to Be Wild T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bush Remedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clam Digger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clam Digger "Direct" T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dancing with Dragons T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dawn Chimney, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Decepticon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ding Dong Goes To USA T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Don't Be A Pussy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dungeons and Dragons T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Faraway Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Funky Dan, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Men In Tights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morass T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Crescent T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Over the Rainbow T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Screaming at the Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Screaming at the Moon (half) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Staircase of the Elves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Swan Song T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBRR, full route) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Zhoulei's Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 280 total, 8/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Dec 27, 2014
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

The original Clam Digger route, already a Liming classic, has a recently added extension above the normal step out to the right 2/3 of the way up marking the 5.10 finish.

This route is the lovechild of a body slot, squeeze chimney, and an offwidth AND there is a handcrack in back, useful only if you can reach it! Be prepared to feel like you have just sprinted a 10k race! This route will leave you full-body tired...

Begin by wedging yourself into this giant overlap and proceed to brawl your way through the lower crux with a combo of chimney and offwidth technique. Rests will only come with good technique and body position. Pass some miniscule faceholds and get crafty moving in towards the handcrack and back out towards the arete of the clam.

Squirm your way up to the 5.10 exit move (the old bolt protecting the 5.10 exit has been chopped) and keep forging upwards towards a flared pod. Above the 5.10 exit, the crack at the back of the slot will thin and the overlap/"clam" will squeeze you into increasingly strenuous positions. Reach the chains before your quads and calves give out.

Note 1: This 5.11 extension is better for top roping than the original 5.10 finish.

Note 2: Rack up wisely. Poorly racked harnesses will be a nuisance on this route.

Location

The Pillars area; immediately to the right of the super thin crack of Air China (5.13c) and a 1-minute walk left from Highway to Hell (5.10a) and Faraway Corner (5.11a).

Protection

Double #.5
Triple #.75
Triple #1
Double or Triple #2
Double #3

C3 cams from #0-2 (green to yellow) or equivalent TCUs or small X4s
Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, Thailand
  5.11+
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, Thailand
  5.11+
THE rite of passage/"quintessential" Li Ming barf-fest.

Did not send. In fact, far from sending.

I would recommend a knee pad as part of the rack. Apr 23, 2017