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Routes in The Watchtower

Sinological T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Elevation: 8,600 ft
GPS: 27.04, 99.692 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 205 total · 5/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Apr 22, 2015
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball
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Description

A new crag that has just opened in Liming as of spring 2015, the Watchtower will be a great place for single and multipitch outings that have a more adventure climbing feel to them. The cliff is up by One Dragon Buttress and is south-facing, which makes it a great option to get plenty of sun in the winter; the valleys in Liming stay rather cold in the winter due to the limited sun they get from the narrow nature of the valleys. The Watchtower is a lone buttress that seems rather low when viewed from Liming town, but as you approach, it becomes apparent that the deceivingly long approach as well as the buttress' slight off-facing position from the town conspire to keep it relatively hidden. Regardless, it will be a fun crag to have a gander out to once you have ticked off your Liming classics at the Pillars, Primitive, and Dinner Wall areas.

Getting There

From Liming town, you have two options.

- (Moderate/Indirect Approach, 1.5-2 hours) Walk out the front gate of the park and walk for a kilometer until you reach a large concrete bridge on your right where there is a construction zone. Walk past the workers' house and barracks up towards the hillside. Up the hillside near where there is evidence of excavation, there should be a fairly wide dirt/sand trail. Follow this trail all the way up to a wide terrace where there is a lone farmhouse compound. One Dragon Buttress is the conical formation on the left. The Watchtower is on the right and has a lone buttress protruding out from the rest of the formation.

Head towards the farmhouse, contouring along the backside of a gully that separates One Dragon from the Watchtower. Before you reach the farmhouse, you will hit a small wooden outbuilding that is the electricity transfer station to the house. From here, there should be a secondary path taking a hard left into the woods.

Follow this path as it goes into and switchbacks up a small gully. You will hit another wider dirt path junction. Turn right. Form there, walk a out 50 feet until you see a faint climber's trail contouring up the hill off the left side of the path. Follow this beneath a small series of low conglomerate cliffs and turn directly uphill when you pass them. Go directly uphill until you reach the cliff. "Sinological," the cliff's only current route (under development) will be on the left, marked by two opposite-facing corners and an abandoned wasps nest near the top of the left-facing corner.

- (Harder/ Direct Approach, 1 hr 15 min-1.5 hrs) From Liming Village, find the schoolhouse and the large concrete play area/basketball court outside. Go down the stairs and cross the basketball court, heading for the river. Go downhill to the river and pick the easiest way across. Once on the other bank, go up the embankment and turn left once the ground flattens. Continue on this path until you are directly under a set of rudimentary power lines. These lines lead to the farmhouse mentioned above. Follow the power lines up a steep hillside on the easiest native/game trail until you reach the lone farm compound (If your must cross through--advise against doing so--please be respectful to the local Lisu family who lives there!). Get to the far side of the compound and locate the same electrical transfer station outbuilding mentioned in the Indirect Approach description. From that point, the routes are the same.

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