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Routes in The Guardian

Akhum-Rah T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brazen Hussie T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Da-Nile T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flight of the Locusts T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gift, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hieroglyphic T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sahara T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scarab, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Sphinx, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Valley of the Kings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wing and a Prayer Project T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mike Dobie
Page Views: 301 total · 9/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Apr 17, 2015
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

This route is full-on for its first half before it even considers giving you a breather. This route will also vary in difficulty based on how big your fingers are. Those with skinny fingers may find this much more cruiser, while those with 'meat paws' may find it ridiculous...

Start 8 feet right of Flight of the Locusts and 6 feet left of The Sphinx in a thin and steep corner crack. Climb the pedestal and begin stemming (a few committing moves off the pedestal if you're not careful) and skinny jamming your way up the crack until some pods/discontinuous crack appear on your left. Creatively weave your way through these two cracks with good footwork and a good dose of lock-off strength. The crack will thin ever so slightly and the left crack will disappear as you reach a small stance where the crack widens. From here, hold off the fatigue and climb the slightly wider/easier crack to a flared pod and a semi-decent stance. A few more moves above the pod will yield a bunch of ledges and the chains.

Location

Right of Flight of the Locusts and left of The Sphinx

Protection

- 0-1 TCUs (green, yellow, red)
- One .1 X4
- One .2 X4
- Two .3s
- Two .4s
- Three or four .5s
- Two .75s
- One 1

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