Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 7,521 ft 2,292 m
GPS: 27.02391, 99.7011
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,807 total · 157/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Dec 15, 2015
Admins: Bob Moseley, Nate Ball, Dan Flynn

Description Suggest change

The South Valley includes all areas in the South Valley, which actually extends to the east of Li Ming village. This provides the benefit of the walls north of the road being mostly sunny and walls south of the road being shaded. The Diamond to Faraway Buttress along the north and from Indy Wall to the Bull Crag along the south. While the approaches are more involved than the main West Valley, the silence and scenery more than make up for it. Route quality is up to the typical Li Ming standard, most routes three- to four- stars with a handful of five-star classics.

Don't let the dogs from the village follow you out to the South Valley.

Getting There Suggest change

The South Valley is best approached first by vehicle, saving 10 to 40 minutes of walking on the road. Take the bridge after the switchback at the fork in the road southwest of the Faraway and continue along the road for 1 to 4 kilometers, depending on the wall. Take care, and maybe a stick, when walking this road - some of the dog could be aggressive.

22 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: South Valley Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at South Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Sahara
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
[Redacted]
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Captain Spaceman Spiff
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
WuPi D
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 11
Wing and a Prayer
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 5
Hieroglyphic
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 8
Total Eclipse
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
The Gift
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
From Switzerland with Love
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 13
Akhum-Rah
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
The Sphinx
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Flight of the Locusts
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sahara Guardian
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
[Redacted] Guardian
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Captain Spaceman Spiff Die Sternwarte
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
WuPi D Diamond
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Wing and a Prayer Guardian
 11
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Hieroglyphic Guardian
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Total Eclipse Die Sternwarte
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
The Gift Guardian
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
From Switzerland with Love Diamond
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Akhum-Rah Guardian
 13
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
The Sphinx Guardian
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Flight of the Locusts Guardian
 8
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in South Valley »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading