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Wing and a Prayer
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.1 from 10 votes
Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
FA: | Sarah Rasmussen |
Page Views: | 744 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Ryder Stroud on Apr 17, 2015 |
Admins: | Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
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Description
To the left of Brazen Hussie and to the right of Sahara is a big, right-facing corner with a roof about 5m off the deck.
Carefully stem and crimp off the deck until you get some gear a few meters up (small C3s; have a good spotter). Place gear under the first big overhang to your right and stand on a slab underneath the roof. A rest may come with full-body jamming. Reach behind your head, and a few very exposed but fairly secure jams (add a little bit of acrobatic movement to make it more exciting!) will bring you to a stance above the roof and beneath a small crack. Climb the thin crack as it slowly widens to gain easier and slightly ledgier terrain up to the anchors.
Carefully stem and crimp off the deck until you get some gear a few meters up (small C3s; have a good spotter). Place gear under the first big overhang to your right and stand on a slab underneath the roof. A rest may come with full-body jamming. Reach behind your head, and a few very exposed but fairly secure jams (add a little bit of acrobatic movement to make it more exciting!) will bring you to a stance above the roof and beneath a small crack. Climb the thin crack as it slowly widens to gain easier and slightly ledgier terrain up to the anchors.
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