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Routes in The Guardian

Akhum-Rah T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Brazen Hussie T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Da-Nile T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Eagle-eyed Super Hawk S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flight of the Locusts T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gift, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hieroglyphic T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sahara T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scarab, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Sphinx, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Valley of the Kings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wing and a Prayer Project T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Mike Dobie
Page Views: 181 total · 5/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Apr 18, 2015
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

A hybrid crack and face climb, Flight of the Locusts is a short but techy route that will require a bit more sport-climbing-esque sequencing than most routes in Liming.

Start on the right leaning crack 8 feet left of Akmun-Rah and around 20 feet right of Brazen Hussie.

Awkwardly stem your way off the ground (groin stretches beforehand might help) until you are forced into the crack. Powerful locking yields a small stance on the left face. Combo face-crack climb your way up until the crack forms a corner. Crank out the hard moves into the corner and continue to the chains, being aware of the face to your left. The bolts will be at a pedestal just above.

FA-er Mike Dobie has also put a bolted extension above this finish, and is currently thought to be about .13a.

Location

20 feet right of Brazen Hussie and 8 feet left of Akmun Rah.

Protection

- Single .2 X4 or equivalent TCU
- Doubles .3 - 1
- Optional 2 (replaces a 1)

Photos

Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
  5.11d
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
  5.11d
Awesome route to the first anchor despite its short length. 5.11d to the first anchor and nearly a number grade harder to the second anchor. Nov 21, 2015

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