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Routes in The Guardian

Akhum-Rah T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brazen Hussie T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Da-Nile T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flight of the Locusts T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gift, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hieroglyphic T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sahara T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scarab, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Sphinx, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Valley of the Kings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wing and a Prayer Project T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA: Leah Pappajohn and Mike Dobie, March 2015. FFA Drew and Diana, December 2015
Page Views: 94 total, 4/month
Shared By: Drew Marshall on Jan 14, 2016
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Two unspectacular approach pitches lead to the money pitch - a 35m technical corner system

The first 5.11 pitch is probably worth skipping via a 4th-class alternative

p1: 5.11, 10m OR 4th class
build a gear anchor by the start of a short crack
Climb the crack and build another gear anchor behind a solid flake (top gear anchor takes .5 to 2)
Alternatively, climb a short squeeze chimney 15m to the right, and walk left along an exposed ledge (4th class)

p2: 5.6R, 20m
Angle right up a run-out dirt ramp, lassooing a tree for pro (triple-length sling)
Bolt anchor

p3: 5.11 A0, 35m
Aid off of a bolt using slings (a blind .2 placement may be helpful) to reach the start of a corner system. Climb the stellar corners
Bolt anchor

Descent:
Two rappels with a 70m rope reach the starting ledge

Location

150m right of Da-Nile, scramble left along a ledge
The 4th class start begins with a short right-facing squeeze chimney.
The 5.11 start begins 15m left of the chimney, at a short flake below a triangle block at the bottom of a crack.

Protection

Camalot X4:
.2 (3-5x)
.3 (2x)
Camalot C4:
.3 - .75 (2x)
1 - 4 (1x)

long slings
70m rope
helmets

Photos

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