All Locations > International > Asia > China > Yunnan Province > Lijiang Area > Li Ming (黎明) > South Valley > The Guardian
Avg: 3.1 from 8 votes
Routes in The Guardian
|Akhum-Rah T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Brazen Hussie T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Da-Nile T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Flight of the Locusts T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Gift, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Hieroglyphic T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Sahara T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Scarab, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0|
|Sphinx, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Valley of the Kings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Wing and a Prayer Project T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||131 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||RyderS Stroud on Apr 18, 2015|
|Admins:||Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball|
DescriptionA great crack climb that will test you for the grade.
Begin on the splitter crack capped with a bulge 20 feet right of Wing and a Prayer Project and 20 feet left of Flight of the Locusts.
Scramble up some fallen blocks embedded in the sand and scoot your way into the tight hands crack off the deck. A few awkward moves will yield larger gear and more cruiser climbing for a short stretch. Find a stance beneath the roof and protect well (you should not place any gear as you pull through the roof above or else the cams will walk VERY deeply into the crack). Place some gear well-beneath the route and extend it well and climb out the overhang. Don't stop for gear until you clear the roof. Above the roof, climb the wide crack--with a hand crack that slowly escapes comfortable reach--to the chains.
The route also extends beyond the first anchor up the wide crack to another bolted belay station. Bring an extra 3 or two, triple 4s, and maybe a 5 for the section above.