Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Guardian

Akhum-Rah T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brazen Hussie T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Da-Nile T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flight of the Locusts T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gift, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hieroglyphic T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sahara T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scarab, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Sphinx, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Valley of the Kings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wing and a Prayer Project T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 131 total, 4/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Apr 18, 2015
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A great crack climb that will test you for the grade.

Begin on the splitter crack capped with a bulge 20 feet right of Wing and a Prayer Project and 20 feet left of Flight of the Locusts.

Scramble up some fallen blocks embedded in the sand and scoot your way into the tight hands crack off the deck. A few awkward moves will yield larger gear and more cruiser climbing for a short stretch. Find a stance beneath the roof and protect well (you should not place any gear as you pull through the roof above or else the cams will walk VERY deeply into the crack). Place some gear well-beneath the route and extend it well and climb out the overhang. Don't stop for gear until you clear the roof. Above the roof, climb the wide crack--with a hand crack that slowly escapes comfortable reach--to the chains.

The route also extends beyond the first anchor up the wide crack to another bolted belay station. Bring an extra 3 or two, triple 4s, and maybe a 5 for the section above.

Location

Begin on the splitter crack capped with a bulge 20 feet right of Wing and a Prayer Project and 20 feet left of Flight of the Locusts.

Protection

- Single .3 to .75
- Single or double 1s
- Single 2
- Double 3

Photos

mc kaiser
Boulder, CO
 
mc kaiser   Boulder, CO
 
This was harder for me than a lot of other Liming 5.10. Very fun climb. Dec 14, 2016