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Routes in Cave area

Anti-meridian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Assless Chaps Extension T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ding Dong's Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Equator T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flying Squirrel, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
HoneyComb Dome , The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Japanese Cowboy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Little Tension Whore T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pancakes and Raisins T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prime Meridian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prospector T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sprained Ego T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sword Ladder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm Up, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: 1st anchor: Matt Segal and Will Stanhope, 2nd anchor: Mike Dobie
Page Views: 270 total, 5/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Oct 27, 2013
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

In 2011, Matt and Will established a 13 meter Ding Dong's Crack, then in spring 2015, Mike Dobie spent two days cleaning, trundling some massive blocks, pushing the pitch to the top of the crack, making for an absolutely must-do, classic 28 meter pitch. No need to stop at the first anchor, keep going for one of the most memorable pitches in Li Ming!

A fingers corner opens into a nice offwidth then becomes a perfect leaning, slightly offset .5 to .75 splitter. Mantle the ledge and recover for part-two. Climb the tight flare with .5s and .75s to some exciting moves through the constriction into a final flare. Nest some bomber gear before committing to the spicy, fantastic finishing sequence.

Location

5 minute walk right of the arch that is the Cave Area. Next to the Lisu ladder.

Protection

(1).3, (3-4).4, (4-6).5, (3).75. A #5 is useful for the offwidth. Save a .4 for the top - a .3 and #2 friend or black metolius can back it up well.

Photos

Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
 
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
 
It'd be great if somebody took out that first anchor and moved it to the ledge above, just to preserve the beauty of the black rock, while still maintaining the original route. Dec 15, 2015